[MOLTIG-LES-BAINS, FRANCE] — So, here I was last April sitting in Skoura, an oasis town in Morocco, and I had to make a choice.

Fed up with my stupid job, I’d quit and left for a little sabbatical for a month in Portugal and Morocco. My plane to the States left the next day, but I wasn’t ready to go back. So I cancelled it.

I flew back to Barcelona, walked up to the Hertz desk and asked “Can I rent a car for a long time? Like two months?” “Si!” So they hooked me up with a sweet little upgraded BMV and I headed towards the Pyrénées.

I had no plans, no goals; just no big cities, only small towns. Places I’d never been. My compass was a triangulation of Relais & Chateaux and TabletHotels, leading the way down the autoroute and AutoGrills toward whoever had open reservations.

And a nice pool.

After jumping rocks and eating lamb in the Spanish Pyrenees,  I rode the toboggan ride road down the Gorges de la Castellanerel into France, hooked a left and headed North.

That’s how I ended up here.

Moltig-les-Bains, a famous Old School spa town were people have been coming to “take the waters” for generations. Driving around the gorges and canyons tucked between these gentle green mountains, you see one road sign after another leading to towns with names ending in -les-Bains.

“The baths.” Something’s goin’ on under these mountains…

Chateau de Riell is located in one of those Les Bains. Moltig-les-Bains, a famous Old School spa town were raisins have been coming to “take the waters” for generations.

CLICK A PICTURE AND OPEN THE SLIDESHOW AND PICK UP THE STORY FROM HERE:

Gorges de la Castellane

Pic de Canigou

The first thing that hits you after driving through the thick stone gate is the glorious garden, tumbling down the hill like an emerald spring. As you pick your way through the dark shade and the tall trees, the path grins wide to a sunlit view over the falling valley. There’s Pic de Canigou peaking up its snowy head, a cappuccino cap worn year ’round at this high altitude, the steep hills parting their hair to open up the view of for miles.

Chateau de Riell is, as promised, a great chateau on a hill. With all the gardens and grounds you’d expect for a chateau. Not the fancy sculpted formal shrubbery of Chenonceau or Villandry, but more English, natural. You just wanna touch everything…. It’s Spring in the Pyrenees.

[PLEASE NOTE: I visited here in Spring 2015. The hotel and restaurants have been updated since then. Check out their website to see the latest. Such a gorgeous place.]

…and this is where you have breakfast. A hand-carved wooden Russian dacha

The Rooms at Chateau de Riell

You know, you never hear the term “light-filled castle”… for a reason. Most heavy stone castle walls were too thick to poke a hole through. Staying in old musty castles is often like staying in a halogen-lit cave dwelling, with a single slit for light and air that you can’t even stick your foot through.

But they figured it out here all right. Big huge windows and ceilings 4 metres tall let Spring in all day long. If you come here, ask to stay in a Tower Room, that’s the one you want. Fantastic. Baronial. With giant views over the trees, hills and valley below. With about the prettiest wallpaper I’ve ever seen. Feels like being a pope, or prince.

That door over there on the right leads into the turret, where there’s a gigantor modern bathroom with a two-couple tub and nice faucets that are like having your own spa. I’ve decided I like my bathrooms in turrets… It ruined me forever. Now when booking a hotel/castle: “Ummmm, do you have a turret?”.

I fell in love with this wallpaper

This is a two couple size tub!

The Restaurant at Chateau de Riell

Plan on three days, minimum to really sink into the mellow spring vibe. Oh, also, during the shoulder seasons, that great restaurant is only open certain days of the week, so time accordingly.

— Last visited May 2015 —