[CARMELO, URUGUAY] — I’m not a huge fan of hotel chains for international trips — I prefer more unique independent hotels that reflect the character of each locale, not the same style everywhere I go. But in a pinch for a room at the last minute in Carmelo, I booked a couple of nights and pool time at the Carmelo Resort & Spa a luxury resort in the tall pines along the Rio La Pata river, about 40 mins from the colonial town of Colonia del Sacramento. It’s one of the best luxury hotels in Uruguay and consistently ranked in the Top 10 Resorts in Central and South America by Conde Nast Traveller and Travel & Leisure.

It was a Four Seasons at the time I stayed there, then Hyatt took over management, but now their website has been scrubbed on nearly anything Hyatt, so I think it is independently run now. (Please correct me in the comments below).

After a long slog through Buenos Aires, Jose Ignacio and the Narbona Wine Lodge just up the road, I was actually quite sated with “coming home” to this very dependable, Americanized resort, in such an exotic location. It was a great relaxation not to have to figure anything out for once — it was all perfect and perfectly done. Amazing service, great food and restaurant and total comfort at every turn. All for the taking.

The clientele matched the demographic of the upscale chain, wealthy and very family-oriented. If you’ve got kids, you want to stay here. But if you’re like me and traveling solo or a couple on romantic holiday, there’s so much room around this resort that you feel like you have your own space, not chock-a-block next to screaming kids or party people.

The Trees are the Stars at Carmelo Resort & Spa

The Carmelo Resort rests in the heart of the prettiest part of Uruguay’s best wine region. Nestled in and under the towering, towering pine and eucalyptus forest lining the Rio de la Plata, the trees themselves, are the stars, with a lot of five star cush to soften your head.

And the sky. Rolling slumberous clouds developing over the muddy La Plata, giant cotton puffs rolling along, one after another. Just for you.

The Giant Pool is the Co-Star of this Gem Resort

The whole resort is built around it. A ginormous pool, carved out of the forest. Giant and wide. Some days it was quiet and mellow, other days groups of kids were having a blast. But the pool is so big that you really don’t hear anyone else, everybody has their own calming space.

The River and the Clouds Star in Supporting Roles

If you’ve been to Buenos Aires and looked out, the Rio de la Plata isn’t the prettiest river to look at. Actually, it’s a giant wide estuary formed Uruguay River and the Paraná River (one of the world’s longest rivers and La Plata’s main tributary) that forms a wide bay that separates Uruguay and Argentina.

Think: The Mississippi around New Orleans. But similar to that great river, it has its charm. But I wouldn’t want to swim in it. I’ll just stay over right here.

But what it does do is generate the most beautiful vistas, far in the distance, with puffy rolling clouds rolling like cargo ships down the river past the Carmelo’s river beach. Great cloud and storm watching, changing every five minutes.

The resort’s giant pools act like great mirrors, doubling the dreamy effect.

The Bungalows at Carmelo Resort

I got a very nice bungalow, set apart from the rest of the other rooms, just a few strides from the river. The room was absolutely perfect, albeit maybe a little too vanilla for me. But it was pure vanilla bean and I can see why people love resorts so much. It all worked so flawlessly, which was a great way to end a nice long trip.

Other Great Breakout Stars

At the time I stayed here in 2014, it looked like a lot of the surrounding land had newly planted grape vines to grow their own wine. I’m sure by now they are fully producing.

Nearby Carmelo, So Much To See

The whole region around Carmelo is known for it’s glorious wines. I loved all the eucalyptus trees and their beautiful peeling trunks shade the lowlands around the highways, opening out onto vineyards and cattle grazing. It’s glorious to go for a walk or bike ride, just outside of the entrance to the resort.

Visit the winery at Narbona Wine Lodge, just up the road. Here’s a post I made on that place.

Colonia del Sacramento is a famous colonial town, perfectly preserved in parts and the main stop for the car ferries coming from Buenos Aires. Perhaps I was tired from a long drive, or rushed to drop off my Uruguayan rental car and take the ferry, but I didn’t get it much. But people rave about it.

— Last Visited March 2014 —

More Information About Carmelo Resort & Spa

Carmelo is right across the la Plata from Buenos Aires, so it was so easy to scoot back to Colonia, drop the rental car and transit via the state of the art ferry terminal and take the Buquebus — the ferry, which is a delight to hear the locals pronounce it so cutely as “Boo-Kay-boos”… without realizing how cute it sounds –to Buenos Aires and jet to the airport and home.

Here is the resort’s website. Here’s the TripAdvisor reviews. And Conde Nast Traveler. Here’s the listing for Carmelo Resort & Spa on the Scott Dunn site. Here’s an enthusiast survey on Uruguayan wines from Wine Enthusiast. great Wine Th