[JALISCO, MEXICO] — Here’s an overview of a weekend spent at Careyes one of the coolest, most exclusive and eccentric resorts in Mexico. High above a nearly deserted Costaalegre coastline, Costa Careyes is a remarkable compound of a several dozen villas (each with their own architectural theme), a cluster of casitas and small hotel and other layers of habitation. And information on Casa Altiplano and Sol de Oriente private villas at Careyes.

Careyes is Unlike Any Other Resort

It was created and owned by a one-eyed Italian count and designed by a several out-there Italian and Mexican architects, this place looks like a bizarre movie set — think Planet of the Apes (in a good Italian way) a little MadMax combined in five star luxury and you get it. Like a jetset version of Arcosanti, but on the beach and pools and nicer sheets.

Conceived in 1960s after flying over in a plane, this is the brainchild/wildchild of Gian Franco Brignone, an 80+ year old Italian financier. Similar to how the Aga Kahn developed the luxurious Costa Smeralda in Sardinia, he wanted to create a place that would attract his well-heeled friends and artists from around the world, to come let loose, be free and creative.

He saw this untouched land and beaches and thought of a different way to develop it…or under-develop it. Compared to the jungle-consuming development in other resorts, Careyes is a 35,000 acre biopreserve, of which only two percent will ever be developed.

There are only 50 or so villas, 40 casitas and one hotel. No village, no yacht harbor, no fancy boutiques or nightclubs, just quiet, the roar of the ocean and the setting sun. There a no beach chairs or umbrellas on the beach, no logo’d merch. It’s all rustic charm and pure submersion in nature.

Celebrities and the super-wealthy come here not to be seen, but to not be seen.

About the only signs of extravagance are the polo fields hidden in the trees, perfect to suit the needs of its world-traveling crowd. And the annual festivals, often tied with the phases of the moon, that bring in rich regulars to party around their pools until the sun rises. They’re supposed to be like a private Burning Man Festival.

The jetset fly in from all over the world to this special place. Lots of Italians and French. You’ll hear half a dozens accents in the restaurants and on the beach. Some have houses, some just come back year after year. We felt like we were sidling up to the cool people.

Situated in Jalisco provence, along the Costalegre, two hours between Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo, it is nicely isolated, with miles and miles of crashing coastline, with knock-out villas and mansions tacked along the cliffsides all up and down the coast.

You kinda feel like you’re inside a special world.

The whole development was eco-conscious — long before it was cool. They grow their own organic produce, purify their own water and have a turtle hatchery.

It’s a big event during hatching season, a party actually, when the whole resort gathers in the moonlight to help guide the little turtles to the sea.

A lot of the architecture blends the villas with nature. Seamlessly.

Go for a Boat Ride Along the Rugged Coast

Since most of the resort is invisible to even its own guests, it’s a blast to charter a boat and ride along the coast to get a feel of the real draw of this magical place. The house-watching is worth it alone. If you didn’t see it from the sea, you’d have no idea it was here.

We caught some nice fish and brought them back and our cook made a fantastic meal for us in the villa.

Stay at Your Own Private Villa at Careyes

Really cool designs tucked into every square inch. Most of the living areas are outdoors, under a giant palapa with thatched roofs and no windows. An incredible attentive staff looks after your every need. We had six of us staying at the Casa Altiplano, which was an amazing work of art.

Casa Altiplano sits high up on a hilltop, with views overlooking the sea. You’d never know there were other villas spread out below.

There are a million small design details in each villa. So much thought into every square foot.

The best restaurant in the resort is right here. Each private villa has its own staff, just for you. A house manager, a sweet cook. A full bar and amazing food served from dawn to dusk. You can go down to the resort for dinner, or have one cooked just for you in your villa.

Of note: I couldn’t find Casa Altiplano on the Careyes website, it seems to be owned and rented separately. See the links I used above, or you can google it.

Get Blown Away by the Sol de Oriente Villa at Careyes

We stayed in the Casa Altiplano, but took a tour of several other of their properties, including a stunning Sol de Oriente Villa with a 180 degree pool that surrounds all the rooms… you can roll out of bed and right into the water. You’ve probably seen it in People and In-Style.  At the time we stayed there, Seal and Heidi Klum had a villa around the corner. (Unfortunately, they later broke up.)

Almost all of the rooms of the Sol de Oriente open right out onto the water, so you can literally roll out of bed… and go for a dip.

— Last Visited October 2004; Post Dramatically Updated December 2024 —

More Information About Careyes

Here is the link to the Careyes website, I love that their web page starts out with “?!”

Here’s a fantastic article from the NYTimes that captures the international mystic and allure of this famous/not-famous place. And a great overview of Careyes from Travel & Leisure. And a great overview of Careyes from Condé Nast Traveler.

When we went there long ago, it was in October. The weather was perfect, but the bugs were nuts. I got eaten alive. I heard that is mosquito season. So google it, or brings lots of DEET.

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