[MONTE ARGENTARIO | MAREMMA, TUSCANY] — Maremma is the southern edge of Tuscany and goes from the hilly and ferrous inland to the varyingly wild-horse-roaming, swampy and rocky coast.

A lot of people just hang out in eastern Tuscany — what Conde Nast Traveller funnily dubbed Chiantishire — and don’t know much about “Hidden Tuscany”, the underdeveloped and handsomely rugged western side.

Where we’re going now is Monte Argentario, once an island, but like my stomach, grew beyond its britches, loosened the top button and is now double-belted to the shore. Go check it out on google maps.

Some call Monte Argentario the Capri of Tuscany, but I think it is more of its own special thing, much much mellower, less crowded and more treed. Long the weekend get away for wealthy Romans (Etruscans waaay before), this is where you want to get away from the thronging glitzy crowds of Portofino and Capri, but still keep your toe in it.

A lot of people might know this area because of the infamous island of Giglio. That’s the tiny little island where the coke- and bikini-loving Italian captain slammed a ginormous cruise ship Costa Concordia onto a shoal whilst waving to friends and fireworks, then ran it ashore and it tipped on its side. When I was there in 2012, you could see it from Monte Argentario, lumbering over that cute little island, like the passed out giant bear in The Revenant. I still can’t believe how huge it was and that they were able to move it in one big piece.

Click here for a great article on  Hidden Tuscany and in CNTraveller and read a great article on this whole area. Here’s another great article I used on the coastal beach towns of Tuscany in the US Conde Nast Traveler. And another on Tuscan Hill Towns in Maremma.



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