A WINTER WEEKEND IN PRAGUE

[PRAGUE] — This is going to be a pretty easy post for you, more of a postcard travelogue. I think I am the last guy to visit Prague, but I slapped it on to an over-Christmas trip to Brussels just to see what it’s like and have some beer. Pretty city. Too many tourists for me. Granted, it was a holiday, but I feel sorry that it was so overrun. But it definitely is a beautiful city. These are the best things I’ve found to do over a winter weekend in Prague. Especially during a Christmas holiday weekend in Prague. Click to open the slideshow and follow along.

Charles Bridge Prague at sunset

There are other, better, already-done guides to Prague, a million of them. Just think of this post as a postcard rack at the train station. See something you like, then figure out where it is.

 

The Charles Bridge–The Center of Everything in Prague

They started building the Charles Bridge in the 1350s if you can believe it. It used to be the only bridge across the river Vltava for 500 hundred years, so was critical to defend and to the city. No cars or buses, only people and man there are a lot of people that cross this bridge going from one side of Prague to the other. Check out the video below.

Charles Bridge at night
Charles Bridge crowds crossing
busy foot traffic Charles Bridge Prague

Walk Along the River and Kampa Park at Dusk

Sure, it’s pretty all the time, but most beautiful right after sundown, with the sky is still light and the city lights are just coming on. You can start in Kampa Park and there are a lot of cafes and bars nearby.

waterfall on Vltava River sunset
Prague buildings along Vltava River night
sunset views Vltava River

Visit The Penguins at Sunset

I love the yellow penguins. Just stumbled upon this art installation along the riverfront in Kampa Park, by the Cracking Art Group. They’re made of recycled plastic, as a statement. Sure, you can see them during the day, but at Blue Hour they really pop.

Cracking Art Group penguins Prague

Check Out the Christmas Markets at Old Town Hall

Old Town Square is the heart of Prague, it’s where everything happens. Surrounded by tons of shops and cafes and gorgeous buildings. all centered around its 14th Century church. At Christmas time the square is loaded with markets, makers and food stalls. It’s like a fairy tale.

There will be bunches of punters on stag parties and Hen Doos, but just find your own private corner and take in the views.

Christmas in Prague

Climb Up to Prague Castle, With Everybody Else

View of Prague Castle and cathedral
Prague architecture
Love how they did this faux brickwork just with paint.
Prague Castle entrance
view of Charles bridge from castle
Prague cathedral
view of Prague from castle
view over Prague
bridges over Vltava River Prague
view of Charles Bridge Prague from castle

Overlook Prague from Strahov Monastery

The Strahov Monastery also runs a brewery and small restaurant off the side, which I loved. Grab a beer and pull up next to someone at a picnic table. Cliff-edge parks offer amazing views over the city.

Strahov Monastery
A great sunset thing to do is go up to the Strahov Monastery and watch the sunset and overlook the city. Great views.

Postcards of Prague

old building on way to Prague Castle
walking along Vltava River
View of Prague Castle at night.
Stairs leading to Prague castle
I love this, told to me by the awesome guide that took me all over the back alleys of Prague and away from all the tourist stops and Segways. “Take me away from people, please.”

Anyhow, he laughed when we walked by this place and I stopped to take a picture, right below the castle, and he told me this story: This quiet corner is the single worst-reviewed restaurant in all of Prague. They’re known for fleecing tourists, serving horrible food, mean service, bad health scores and lighting up TripAdvisor, with matches, for years. So then what did they do? They just painted over the restaurant name and address. Nothing but generic signs like “pizza” and “cafe” so now nobody can look up the reviews, or write about them… nobody could find them! They just sit and wait for the next moth to trip down the steps and into their web.
alley behind Prague Castle
family playing along Vltava River
Prague building at night
Boat on Vltava River sunset

You Should Eat Here in Prague

U Maliru 1543

Like a cat circling the edges of a big pillow, I walked around Prague for two hours, looking for The Right Spot. Too big. Too touristy. Too bright. Too empty. Too loud. Soon as I walked by outside these leaded glass windows I skidded in my tracks, Tom & Jerry style.

U Malířů Restaurant best restaurant in Prague

It was the ceiling that got me. Okay, dozens of candles too. Surely, it was the tray going by with silver sauce bowls and big red goblets of wine. Yep, this was just the ticket. In jeans, walking boots and a little dew on the lily from the walk, I didn’t realize I’d walked into one of the top restaurants in Prague. The expression on their face told me so. Kinda like “Seriously?” (but with a thicker accent, obvs.) “Ano, prosím!”

Then I snagged the last table, the nicest waiter and the best Czech Cab they had and settled in for the night; staring at this gorgeous ceiling, dragons and noblemen and two-tailed lions glaring back.

U Malířů Restaurant Prague 1543

All cosy and candley, turns out U Malírù is one of the oldest restaurants in Prague, slingin’ port wine reduction since 1543. With its arches and alcoves and candles, you almost feel like you’re there, pulling back your chainmaille to tuck in some mousse from saddle of rabbit or slurp some mushroom soup. “Just think how many people have ett here” Jed Clampett would say. All I knew was that my saucer of wine was running low, lamb shank was on its way and all I could do was purrrrrr.

Order a Pilsner Everywhere

Pilsner Urquell Prague

Pilsner Urquell is the national beer and has been brewed the same way since 1842. It tastes best on tap. Plus, as home of the pilsner, there are dozens of local breweries, some hundreds of years old, some new microbreweries.

I tried going in here because it was so pretty, right next to the Mandarin Oriental. A French restaurant in Prague, run by an Italian lady. Had to be good. It was jammed every night. Also, right around the corner from the French Embassy.

La Finestra In Cucina

La Finestra In Cucina Prague best Italian restaurant

Second best meal in Prague. La Finestre. White truffles, shaved and weighed at the table. “Want some more?” “Definitely.” Delightful place. Friendly peeps that loved serving as much as I loved eating.

Warm Up in Cafe Savoy

Cafe Savoy has been going since 1893. It’s a Viennese-style cafe by day, with a more elevated French dinner menu at night. It was just perfect as I had no reservations and was just walking by “Now that’s a place for me.”

Cafe Savoy dining room Prague

It’s a gorgeous two-story cafe, but check out these amazing light fixtures. From afar, they look like Murano glass but are made from recycled plastic bottles. (bottom photos from their website)

Get the Best Goulash at Pivovar Strahov

Just a few steps from iconic Prague Castle, the Strahov Monastery Brewery is hidden in a beautiful and historic monastery founded in 1142 and they’ve been brewing beer for 600 years. Pivovar Strahov is their outdoor restaurant and beerhall.

Pivovar Strahov Prague goulash

You Should Stay Here in Prague–Mandarin Oriental

I typically don’t like fancy hotel chains, but my travel agent recommended staying at the Mandarin Oriental and I couldn’t agree more. The location is perfect, in quiet Lesser Town, so you’re away from the noise of the Old Town, but just across the bridge. And for a Mandarin Oriental, it’s very reasonably priced.

Mandarin Oriental hotel entrance

— Last visited Christmas 2015; Post updated October 2024 —

More Information on the Best Things to do in Prague

Here’s TripAdvisor’s 15 best things to do.

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