[MUNICH, GERMANY] — I’d been in and out of the super cool Munich airport — which in itself, looks like a super clean Apple store — because of direct and lovely Lufthansa flights from Denver. But coming back from the Dolomites, I decided to do a day and a half in Munich during a rainy July weekend. I loved it so much, found so many cool things, I decided to come back over a Christmas break to spend nearly a week. Wow. I was blown away. This is a combined post of both of those trips of all the cool places I found to eat. There were other meals that were just meh, so I didn’t include them here, but these are the great places to eat in Munich. You should eat here.

Are there other great restaurants in Munich? Certainly. There are much more detailed guides available which I’ve linked below. These are just the best ones I found.

Theresa — My Kind of Restaurant

I’d read so many great things about Theresa Grill. After several days in Munich, I was Schnitzel’d-out and was longing for something different.

When I asked the super-cute front desk woman at my hotel if she would recommend it, “Oh, yes yes. I love that place.” Done.

Theresa specializes in wood-grilled meats and seafood. Already exceeding my annual beef intake in just a week, I still ordered a hanger steak, plump as a rabbit, drizzled with a demi-glace so thick you could shellac a table. It was so rich and dark, it wouldn’t even show up in my pictures. OMG it was decadent.

But one of the best parts was the silky pureed cauliflower with heaps of truffles, melt in the mouth good.

This place was spectacular. The service outstanding and friendly. You should definitely plan your trip to eats here, at least once.

“Do you like tartare?” the waiter asked. Bwahaha. “YES!” “Guut, ours is one of the best.”

Soon, a different waiter brought a large tray of jars, each with a special topping. Capers. Egg yolk. Pepper. Chopped onions. Tabasco, Worcestershire and All The Love. “Would you like all of these?” “Definitely!”

Standing in front of a large wooden bowl at a long island in the center of the room with his back to me, he mixed together All The Things, using his special alchemy and flourish. Delicate sprinkles, precise grinds and Just-Sos that only he was privy to. It was like watching an orchestra conductor, back to me, hands, arms and elbows all moving with precision

Funny, like a restaurant running a fajita sizzle plate through the dining room, soon all the new tables ordered the tartare. Each time, a different guest conductor would come out to quietly perform the same quiet ballet, back turned to the audience. This wasn’t a Schnitzel-Schnitzel place, this was Tartare Heaven.

It’s crazy, looking at review pics online it looked like one place, then I’d see another and it looked completely different. Looks like they flipped it from rom dark browns to this super mod look now with wallpaper that looks like my mom’s 70s scarves. Loved it so much. My best meal of the week.

Go and let me know what you think.

Bar Centrale–A Taste of Milano in Bavaria

My hotel had a great breakfast setup, but I wanted to get out each morning. I googled coffeeshops and found this heaven. Bar Centrale. I never realized there was such a connection between Northern Italy and Bavaria, but discovered a ton of Italian influence all throughout Munich. Some call Munich “Italy’s northernmost city.”

Some call Munich “Italy’s northernmost city.” And here, you’ll hear more Italian than German being spoken.

When I first walked into the winter-curtained entrance to Bar Centrale I breathed a sigh of relief. This is my place. The steaming sound of a La Marzocco, the hushed conversations over high tables, a discreet backroom dining room hidden by heavy curtains. An Italian volleyball team was silently battling it out on a small TV. My god, this is everything I love. It’s like being in Milan, but here. I

I came back here every.single.morning of my week here.

In the back room they serve more of a sit-down breakfast experience. I tried to go back there but the waiter said “completely full. only reservation.”

Get the Perfect Negroni at Schumann’s Bar — One of the Top 50 Bars in the World

When I first saw pictures of Schumann’s online, I saw the coaster, a negroni and their cool logo. Yup, that’s the place for me. Then I saw the back bar and said “going there tonight.”

I didn’t even read much until later, after I walked out of the bar, smiling, thinking “Wow, that place is something special.” Only later did I see that they are one of the Top 50 Best Bars in the World. I can see why.

They call it a New York-style bar. To quote the owner:  “good service, best quality, no frills”

The thing I liked best about Schumann’s is how friendly and accommodating everyone is. I’m so over snooty mixologists and stuffy bars who get pissy when you don’t order one of their special sugary drinks.

I walked in without a reservation and the place was packed. They instantly cleared a place for me and served me like I was the only patron in the place. Four bartenders just banging out the drinks, it was a blast to watch.

And the people-watching is fantastic. I don’t know who any of these people are, but they all look important. A lot of media business and celebrities hang out here. I wanted to eavesdrop…but everyone was speaking German. 🤣

Weinhaus Neuner

You need to come get a modern take on classic German and Austrian food. I think I could eat here once a week.

I was so excited to have schnitzel for every meal, but had struck out on a couple of other places that were just meh. I finally found Schnitzel Heaven™️ here, in Munich’s oldest wine bar, operating for over a hundred years… in a three hundred year old townhouse. 😮 Weinhaus Neuner

But instead of a dusty old relic of the past, the decor was clean and crisp, like a nice crisp Riesling, not a museum. And the oompah band replaced by a hip soundtrack that would make a ChipMix jealous (IYKYK).

I didn’t come for the schnitzel, though. I came because the chef is known for doing updated versions of German classics, and figured they had the wine part down after a hundred years.

I was going to get something else, a venison back in a cool sauce, but when I asked the adorable server what I should get instead, she said without pausing “zee schnitzel.” Huh.

But when I saw the wise wine-drinking group of six at the other table all get the same thing — Schnitzel. Schnitzel. Schnitzel. Schnitzel. Schnitzel. Schnitzel — I decided to get the Schnitzel.

They were all correct. And those ladies polished off their plate-size portions like me drunk-cooking at home on a Friday night.

Goddamn this place was perfect. Bookmark it for when you come here. Thank you.

Brenner Munich

Brenner is a fantastic Italian/German mix up, all centered around its namesake “brenner” which means grill in German.

It’s a huge place, set in the 300 year old former royal stables, with giant stone columns and arches over the entire place. It’s broken out into three places, a big beautiful bar, full with people nipping in from the cold weather, a grill room, centered around the big grill and a calmer dining room that focuses on fresh-made pastas and Italian dishes mixed with German flair.

Brenner is big and lively and a blast to walk room to room with everyone having fun.

Schneider Bräuhaus München

On my second trip to Munich, I arrived on Boxing Day, December 26th. Nearly everything was closed; shops, offices, most restaurants, even most grocery stores. Everything except for a few places and the biggest museums. Schneider Bräuhaus München was one of the only places that was open. In fact, it has been open since the 1870s!

It was a perfect holiday stop, especially on a closed-holiday day where it rained the entire day. A small oompah band, sweet and efficient Bavarian waitresses, big steins of beer. Can’t ask for anything more. Is the food the best? No. But the whole package is what makes it work. And it sure beats the chaos of The Hoffbrau House.

Ornella

Ornella is a beautiful restaurant on a postcard-perfect small square not far from Marienplatz. Tucked under big stone arches with a cool mix of modern and classic decor. And specializing in northern Italian food.

It was always not-busy every time I walked by, but I finally ducked in here on my final night. The food was good, the service, not as nice as everywhere else in Munich. But still worth a visit. Just loved their logo and menu design.

The LOUIS Grillroom

Located in my favorite hotel, the LOUIS which I wrote about in another post, the LOUIS Grillroom steakhouse is amazing in a supercool room. The serve meat from different countries so you can taste the differences. It’s so good, I ate here several times over two different stays.

It’s on the fancy side, with many people wearing sport coats, so don’t come in schwetty. Build a special night around coming here.

Have Brunch at Kochspielhaus

Kochspielhaus is one of several Spielhaus-named restaurants that have been feed Munich healthy food since 1980.  It’s a bit Avocado Toast, but totally genuine, friendly and yummy.  A great reprieve from heavy German food. This location is just off Old Town. Get the shakshuka.

Fuel Up on Coffee Before Your Flight

More Information on the Best Places to Eat in Munich

Here’s Eater’s always dependable 30 Essential Restaurants in Munich list — which is always great for including not just fancy restaurants, but essential restaurants that define a city. Here is TimeOut’s Top 10 Munich Restaurants, which include Theresa. It shows how great the restaurant scene is in Munich when almost none of my faves are on those lists. Here’s Michelin’s Top Munich restaurants. Here’s the Top 50 Best list of restaurants and bars in Munich.

Here’s a great 36 Hours in Munich story from the NYTimes. And AFAR magazine’s top list. And a Munich Guide from CNTraveller.com and this one, too. And this great Vogue article on Munich. And NY Magazine’s guide to Munich. Here’s a video from my favorite Monocle magazine, the ultimate tastemakers. Monocle also prints and amazing Munich guide that directed me to a lot of places, shopping, restaurants, sites, etc. It got me back to buying print guides. I also really like the Simply Munich website, it’s very helpful. And here’s a link to my other posts on Munich, one about the amazing LOUIS hotel and the the other about my favorite things I found in Munich.