[STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN] — This post is all about what to do over a quick winter weekend in Stockholm.

My sister and I took my niece and nephew to meet up with her daughter who was studying in Sweden. We were only in Stockholm for two nights in the dark of winter… and in Stockholm, the winter’s are very dark.. so I wasn’t able to get many pictures, especially because in 2006, my camera was pretty low-fi. But here are some things I’d suggest you do.

It’s funny, I used to work for a Swedish company a long long time ago and this was my fourth trip to Sweden, all of my visits have been in the middle of winter, just by coincidence. Such a beautiful green city, surrounded by crystal clear water, water so clear you can swim in it in the middle of the Zentrum. I can’t wait to come back in summer.

Stockholm is considered the Venice of the North, islands surrounded by water on all sides, bridged from one to the next. The water in the Centrum of the city is so clean, in summer everyone takes their lunches on the green grass, then strip off their clothes, take a naked swim, dry off and then go back to work.

There are so many cool parts of Stockholm. I remember on my first work trip and the Swedish CEO of our company invited me to dinner. I was staring in Gamla Stan, one of the oldest parts of the city and he said we’d at cool place near his flat “It’s a newer restaurant.”

When I got there, we descended some stairs to a large basement dining room with soaring stone arches, it was gorgeous. “Wow, this is cool, I thought you said this was new?” “Yes, it is. It’s from the 1860s. The place we ate the other night was from the 1600s.” 🤣

Walk Through Postcard-Perfect Gamla Stan

Gamla stan — “Old Town” — is a small island in the middle of Stockholm and one of its oldest sections, dating back to the 13th Century. So many amazing streets, cool shops tucked under colorful buildings. Some cafes have been in continuous operation since the 1600s, including one that is a Guinness World Record holder for the oldest, continuously operated restaurant in the world.

It’s touristy, but still cool and there are some cool places tucked away off the main drag. Here’s the Visit Stockholm page for more details on Gamla Stan.

Definitely, Definitely Go to the Vasa Museum

One of the neatest museums in the world is Stockholm’s Vasa Museum. The entire museum is built around a single wooden sailing warship called the Vasa. Built during Sweden’s years as a world naval power in the 1600s, the Vasa, having just been christened, slid out in the Stockholm harbor and was hit with a big gust of wind. Because it had so many canons on it up hight, it quickly tilted over, filled with water and sank instantly to the bottom.  

It remained on the bottom for hundreds and hundreds of years, perfectly preserved by the rich mud until it was rediscovered in the 1960s, raised  and pumped full of preservatives. The whole museum is built around the ship, allowing you to get up close to its sides, peek in its decks and really get a feel for the real deal.  It really is cool and one of my favorite museums in the world.

It’s really something special. You can get right up next to the sides, peak inside and see how low the ceilings were for shorter people then.

Go for a Brisk Walk in Royal Djurgården

The Royal Djurgården — the formerly private Royal Gardens up until the late 1800s — is a giant, six mile long multi-use park right in the heart of the city. It was the world’s first urban park, It’s the #1 tourist site in Stockholm and popular year round. It’s free. There is a Tivoli-style urban amusement park, multiple museums (including the Vasa Museum) and endless gardens and snacks. Even the ABBA Museum.

(Photos from the Visit Stockholm website)

Candlelight is Everywhere

There’s a wonderful tradition all over Stockholm, especially in the very dark days of winter when daylight is short. Darkness is everywhere. But the street lights add atmosphere. I loved walking anywhere in the city and there are simple white candles in every shop and restaurant window, flickering to welcome you.

I was astonished walking into a tiny sweater shop, with bins of wool sweaters stacked floor to ceiling, and live candles were everywhere… like it was nothing to have an open flame amongst the wool.

(Above photo from the Visit Sweden website.)

Have Dinner and a Rocking Concert at the Happening Berns Hotel

The Berns hotel is a glorious palace hotel, built in the 1800s. It was always a grande dame of a hotel. But right before we were there, it had undergone a dramatic renovation and transformation.

Instead of Old School dowdy hotel, now it was The Shit. Hiring designers like Terrance Conran and Philippe Starck to redesign its rooms and public spaces into the hippest, coolest style, but letting the old bones show marvelously. With a rockin’ lobby and and about the most glorious ballroom that hosts the most amazing rock concerts, DJs and crazy events. I think it’s still rocking today.

Go for drinks or dinner, then sidle on over to the ballroom and rock until the morning.

My underage nephew and I snuck away from the family to check out the bar. We had no idea about the ballroom, but heard boom-boom-boom coming from next door and walked in. To our delight, it was the crazy gypsy rock band Gogol Bordello and were blown away at our chance. Won the second award for Coolest Uncle that night.

Here’s a review of The Berns from OutThere.com. And the Michelin Guide for The Berns.

But for my next visit, I plan on staying at the super cool, subdued Ett Hem hotel in Södermalm. The first time I saw this place, my jaw dropped. They continue to redefine what a hotel is, decades after they opened. Check out this profile from Mr & Mrs Smith. And a recent glowing profile from House & Garden.

Pay a Visit to The Royal Palace

Sweden is a monarchy and there are royal palaces all over, including the Zentrum. They offer tours on certain days of the week, so check it out on the official palace website to book in advance.

(Photos above and below from the Palace website)

There are other political sites to check out, including the Parliament and the Nobel Prize Museum.

Dip in For a Nip at the Ice Bar

Okay, this might be dated now, but when we were in Stockholm, this was the first Ice Bar in the world, sponsored brilliantly by Absolut Vodka. Now there are ice bars everywhere — in fact one of my best friends just retired after selling his business furnishing ice bar ice to cruise ships leaving Miami.

But at the time, I won Cool Uncle Award for taking my underage nieces and nephew here, strapped on some parkas and sipped vodka shots surrounded by ice. It was a gimmick, but absolutely fun.

Have a Wonderful Skate, Anywhere

Cold doesn’t scare Scandinavians. It’s like any other day, just with different clothing. There’s lots of skating, everywhere. And when it gets really cool and the harbors freeze over, people can skate to work.

Explore All the Cool Neighborhoods

Södermalm is the large island on the south side of the Zentrum, was once a working class meat-and-potatoes neighborhood south of the city. But for the last several decades it has been the Brooklyn of Stockholm, where all the cool things happen.

“Söder” is loaded with sidewalk cafes, cool stores and galleries and tons of things to do. And great parks that overlook the other islands of the city.

Here’s the best things to do from AFAR magazine. And a great list of things to do from the official Stockholm tourist site.

(Above photos from the Stockholm tourist web site)

— Last Visited November 2006 —

More Information on What to Do in Stockholm

Here’s a great article on the best things to do on a weekend in Stockholm by a local, in CNTraveller.

Here is the absolutely wonderful Visit Stockholm website. And their section on the best things to do in the winter in Stockholm. And the just-okay Visit Sweden website. Here’s The NY Times 36 Hours in Stockholm.