COOL THINGS TO DO IN AMSTERDAM

[AMSTERDAM] — I’d never been to Amsterdam before – was never that interested in the coffeeshops and sex shops and drunken British lads. But after working like a fiend all year, I decided to make a Mileage Run over a Thanksgiving, booking two weeks before and doing very little research. I jumped on a plane and just decided to wing it, knowing I just needed to get out of the country, fast. I came for five days, but I was kinda done after three. It’s a small city. Best here are the best things I found to do in Amsterdam. Cool things to do in Amsterdam

Amsterdam buildings at dusk

November is, I discovered, the absolute rainiest month in the year. No big deal, I was expecting that, I like going places when hoards of tourists aren’t there and get a chance to live like a resident. Living in New York taught me that. While everyone came in the hot and sweaty summer, some of my favorite times were ducking into somewhere warm when it was cold and rainy outside.

Rainy day Amsterdam

But it was, indeed, very rainy and sideways windy. Which is why I also don’t have that many photos from my trip. I went through four umbrellas in two days….finally finding an unbreakable one. Kinda blew me away: here I was, in full waterproof raincoat, big ass umbrella and waterproof shoes and I still looked like a drowned rat, meanwhile 90% of the population is zooming around on bikes, in feet-knocking- out wind, in just wool coats and scarves, no hats, and they just acted like nothing was going on.

I went through four umbrellas in two days….finally finding an unbreakable one.

Especially all the cute girls, fearless on their sturdy bikes, zipping in and out of traffic. They’d pull up on their bike and walk right in, slip off their coat and sit down at a restaurant like it was nothing….and I’d be dripping at the front door like a golden retriever.

I guess that’s why The Dutch have always had that slept-in hair look. I always thought it was a fashion statement, but now I am wondering if it is just functional. No need for product.

Visit The Greats at the Amazing Museums

Rijksmuseum best museum Amsterdam
Whaaat? What did I say??

The Rijksmuseum best museum Amsterdam. It has all the old masters. Skip the line, or just make sure you can get in by making reservations online in advance.

The Rijksmuseum temporary entrance
When I was there long ago, The Rijksmuseum was undergoing an extensive remodeling and most of the main sections were closed. I fell in love with the brilliance of this temporary entrance. So elegant and striking. It’s an optical illusion, they foreshortened the entrance, using cheated, extorted angles to make the entrance look bigger than it actually is. It looks really tall and deep, but it’s actually like 15-20″ deep. Loved the elegance of the contrasting colors.

Take a Canal Tour

This is actually pretty cool. Nice to get down low on the water and root around. I would recommend doing this early in your stay because the tour orients you to the city a lot and gives some great background that will be useful as you walk ‘round.

Amsterdam canal tour boat
The NEMO Science Museum
The NEMO Science Museum is so cool. Designed by my favorite, Renzo Piano, It’s right in the harbor and designed to look like a big hulking ship. It actually is on top of an underground traffic tunnel, so mimicked the shape. It has a big rooftop on top you can go visit.
The NEMO Science Museum from water

Go around dusk, when the sky is still blue and the lights inside all the narrow buildings start to shine and you can peek in to daily life.

Cool things to do in Amsterdam

Just Get Lost and Walk Around, It’s a Small City

Absolutely one of the best city to do this, mostly because it is so small. I would just set out every day wandering for 7 hours, hopping canals with no itinerary, just watching daily life. Got into some neighborhoods, you probably wouldn’t normally see.

The canals all fan out in a circle from the center, a little disorienting at first, but once you get your bearings, it is easy just to go block by block, canal by canal. Strive for the Jordaan area…really cool part of town. Even the famed Red Light District is getting cleaned up recently, with the city trying force out the debauchery.

Amsterdam crooked buildings

Watching all the bikes and smiling people. Fathers riding around with their kids standing on the bookrack in the back, casually placing hands on the dad’s shoulders – which seems to be the rage for little boys. Mom’s with those cool push-box-bikes where they just dump their kids in the there and go. No need for helmets (nobody wears helmets) or padding, or aircraft-size strollers with protective everything or cupholders….it was just such a nice change from the freakishness safety-obsessed view of the US.

church in red light district Amsterdam
canal lights at night Amsterdam
church at night Red Light district Amsterdam

Marvel at the Woonerf Urban Design

Woonerf design Amsterdam tram

You’re right, I didn’t know what woonerfs were either. But watching all the commingling of pedestrian, bike, auto and tram traffic in Amsterdam, I was blown away by how well it worked. So as an urban design freak, I looked it up.

woonerf definition

But back in 2009, this was a pretty breathtaking concept, now adopted around the world. Most major cities were reoriented to car traffic in the 60s and 70s, which put other modes of transport on lesser importance, especially pedestrians.

Woomverts are to take that all away; take all the curbs away, take all the dangerous traffic islands and sidewalks away, put them all in a blender and in one intermingled street. Everything slows down. Everyone just figures it out.

Traffic is calmer and flows better. Even trams move gently through busy streets. No blaring horns, just little ding-ding reminders they are there. No waiting for a traffic like to cross the street. I LOVE it.

Woonerf design Amsterdam

Look for Frankey

This is another favorite thing, but much more recent. Street Art Frankey. I first read about him in The NY Times article here. It’s about this now-famous street artist in Amsterdam who sneaks his tiny (and sometimes large) little fun sculptures in the most unexpected places, turning the mundane into pure, brilliant art.

street art Frankey

(Photos from The NY Times article I linked. Check it out.)

They are surprises all over Amsterdam, on railings, rooftops, signs, posts and chimneys What an absolute delete. People now have a hobby to see how many they can find. Check out his amazing website here.

You Should Eat Here in Amsterdam

Eat Like You’re in a Movie at Café Americaine

Once I saw pictures of Café Americain I knew that’s where I had to go. A gorgeous giant Art Deco room from 1902 in an old art deco hotel. If there was one place I knew I wanted to go, this was it. The Real Thing — reminds me somewhere my dad must’ve eaten in.

Café Américain Amsterdam best restaurant
Café Américain Amsterdam Art Deco decor

Oddly, when I went there at 8:30 on a Saturday night, it was almost completely empty…probably 200 seats in the room. And me. Maybe three other tables. I couldn’t figure it out. But the Old School menu was delish, with a delightful Old School waiter in an Old School white jacket, etc. I loved every minute of it. Give them a try and let me know in the comments.

Café Américain Amsterdam incredible entree

Man oh man, did I have a great meal. Get the oysters. And the Beef Wellington had one of the most memorable, kick ass sauces that I’ve been trying to cook myself for years (and never would I expect I would get Beef Wellington anywhere). For your convenience, some pictures to help in your menu decision.

Duck Into Any Tiny Place, It’ll Be Great

Amsterdam has so many amazing little restaurants. Some have a short life, others long, but nearly always good, with incredible character and difference between each. You can find just about any cuisine you want, there are so many nationalities that live here. I was only in town for a couple of days, so didn’t get to eat out much, but here’s TimeOut’s Guide to the Top Restaurants in Amsterdam. And here’s the always-dependable Eater Top 38 Restaurants in Amsterdam.

Eat at a small restaurant Amsterdam

ENVY by far, was the best, best meal of my trip when I was there, but has since closed. But there are a lot of amazing restaurants all over Amsterdam.

You Should Stay Here in Amsterdam

I only got to stay in two hotels, each for a short time. Here’s Condé Nast Traveler’s Guide to the Best Hotels in Amsterdam.

The Dylan Hotel

The Dylan Hotel was my favorite. Unfortunately, I wanted to stay there the whole time, but they were booked except for my last night, which I loved. It was one of the first boutique design hotels in Amsterdam, the perfect location, a great bar and a two star restaurant.

Since they’re a design hotel, they are always keeping up to date and remodeling, so my fuzzy old camera photos are a little dated but still you can see the good bones of the place. It was a really cool funky design in the rooms when I was there. It looks like they’ve lightened it all up since then. Highly recommend.

entrance The Dylan Hotel Amsterdam
The Dylan Hotel Amsterdam restaurant

The College Hotel

This is such a beautiful building at its core. When I stayed here, The College Hotel was part of the university and was designed, run and cooked by students in the hospitality program so they could get real life experience. It has since been taken over by Marriott — like everything — but students can still get experience working there. They’ve changed the look since I was there, unfortunately they painted over some of the amazing black gloss woodwork that I fell in love with, but it still looks amazing.

The College Hotel Amsterdam entrance
The College Hotel Amsterdam room

— Last Visited November 2009; Post Updated October 2024 —

More Recommendations on Amsterdam

Here’s TImeOut’s Guide to the best things to do in Amsterdam. Here’s Frommer’s Guide to the best things to do in Amsterdam. Here’s Condé Nast Traveler’s Guide to Amsterdam.

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