[JOSE IGNACIO, URUGUAY]  — There. I said it. Jose Ignacio is it. Jose Ignacio is the World’s Best Beach Town.  Here’s my overview of everything I know about Jose Ignacio Uruguay. After almost a half dozen trips, here’s my guide to Jose Ignacio. The best restaurants in Jose Ignacio. The best beaches Jose Ignacio. The best hotels in Jose Ignacio.

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This is my favorite place in this world. If you’ve followed me for some time or talk to me over Negronis, THIS is the place I always talk about. This is a huge post, combing multiple visits over ten years into a single comprehensive guide in one place. All the reasons that make this the world’s best beach town.

Jose Ignacio is my favorite place on earth.

A half hour north of the Miami-like Punta del Este is a small peninsula that juts just right out into the ocean, able to capture the best sun and waves from sunrise to sunset. Surrounded on three sides by beaches, Jose Ignacio is the definition of “rustic elegance”.

As opposed to the high-rises of Punta, Jose Ignacio is restricted to just low-level, understated single family summer houses made from local materials; usually designed by famous Uruguayan, Argentine, Spanish, Brazilian or other famous architects. There are no more than a hundred or two if you count those dotting the sprawling hills in nearby countryside. So the crowds are limited, the mood subdued, the streets unpaved. The number of hotels are limited, which helps prevent hoards from invading this special place.

When I first tried to book a room at the very small and intimate Posada del Faro, Jose, the hotel owner, sent a brushback email… like a warning shot off the bow…

“There is no luxury in Jose Ignacio, it is a very small town, the streets are not paved, there is no ATM, there is no restaurant in the hotel, no room service, no spa, no workout room. If you are looking for luxury, it is not here….”

That’s when I knew I had to go.

A sleepy town most of the year, Jose Ignacio may have the shortest High Season on earth, lasting last just weeks and starting exactly on the day after Christmas. December 26th. Like locusts that all come out of the ground on a single day, on December 26th, the sleepy town comes alive as the world’s wealthy descend from Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, Greenwich, the Hamptons, France and Italy. Seriously, you’ve never seen so many beautiful people in such a small place. Some look familiar, some seem like they should be. It’s the best people watching, ever.

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The first time I ever heard about Punta Del Este and Uruguay was when I worked for a Swedish company in the 80s and our South American salesman said he had a house there and it was the greatest place on earth. “Uruguay???  Really? Why?”  Several years later I made a quip about Uruguay after reading an article in The NY Times: “You know, you never really hear anything about Uruguay. Ever.”

Who knew that years later I’d become one of Uruguay’s biggest proponents.

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Here’s an old video I made that really shows the vibe of Jose Ignacio. Cool music is everywhere and really creates the vibe here. Click to watch. And turn your sound up. It’s a vibe.

When you think of beaches and beach towns in South America, most people think of Brazil. (Which is awesome in itself.) But few are aware of this absolutely stunning windswept and wave-laden peninsula just 40 minutes north of the Miami-like high-rises of Punta del Este.  You can fly into Punta from Buenos Aires, or take a longer ferry, then rent a car and then take the short jaunt up the road. Or you can fly into Montevideo, which is a mellow two hour drive away.

The streets may be made of dirt, but the 100 or so understated houses are architectural marvels, each with their own high perch to view the surf. There are only a handful of restaurants, but they are some of my favorites in the world, mixing the right amount of groove, rustic decor and amazing food.

You definitely need a car to go exploring the best parts. I was here once and met a cute English couple on their honeymoon who didn’t have a car and they felt stranded a bit, especially in those days when there wasn’t an ATM in town and restaurants and shops only took cash.  There are a only a couple of taxis maybe one, but that’s it.  For most of the people here, this is where they have a house, so they have a car. Must be the most bored taxi drivers on the planet.

Growth is very restricted, so there are only a handful of small boutique hotels, which keeps the crowds low.  Everyone else stays in their hidden compounds, venturing out for a stay at the beach or lingering for hours in the town’s casually elegant restaurants. In Jose Ignacio, it’s all about the beaches and the restaurants, all in a cool, laid-back vibe.

You sleep late, have a light breakfast, then head to the beach mid-morning. A late long lunch breaks the pounding sun, the white clerico sangria and wine being just enough for an afternoon nap in the shade. Then you go back to your place, take a cooling dip in the pool, another nap, shower, cocktails and then head out with the arriving darkness around 9ish.

Most locals eat very late, going out for midnight seatings, even with their sleepy kids and families. If you’re just a couple or couple of couples, you’ll actually feel like a small group as it seems every table is a ten- or twelve-top. Everywhere you go, big, very tan groups of gorgeous people of multiple generations, all hanging out into the wee hours. Even little kids, running around the restaurants at midnight. That’s way past my bedtime.

My god, this is the best place on earth. I’ve been there four or five times since 2005, so this post includes consolidated pictures and posts over the last decade.

I can’t wait to go back.

The Town of Jose Ignacio

There are about 200 residents in Jose Ignacio, although I’m not sure how many of those are not year-round.  Many famous people have houses here, or near here. Ralph Lauren. The famous English writer Martin Amis lived here for a long time. Many wealthy Europeans and financiers and fashion people.

It’s also polo area, so there are international matches once or twice a year, where billionaires fly in all their ponies for intense matches. At sunset, you can see the skyscrapers of Miami-like Punta del Este.

The sunsets are unreal. Definitely build your nap time and cocktail hour around them.

 The Beaches of Jose Ignacio

The Best Restaurants in Jose Ignacio

There’s one name you need to know before you arrive in Jose Ignacio, La Huella (pronounced La Hu-EYSHA in local dialect, a shhh instead of the typical Spanish ya). You need to know this because this is where you will go every single day, sometimes twice. Located smack on the best beach at the edge of town, La Huella is my favorite restaurant in the world, in this, my favorite beach town in the world.

Parador La Huella–The Best Beach Restaurant in the World

This is the place. My favorite restaurant in the world. In my favorite place in the world.

Don’t believe me, check out this great article and my favorite video on La Huella in Bon Appetit.

To quote Guzman, the owner, “we just cook simple beach food.” This is anything but simple.

My suggestion: even before arriving here, book a standing 3pm reservation every single day of your stay at La Huella. And then back that up with a couple of dinner reservations because you will want to come back….and it’s a completely different vibe at night, and equally as special.

Marismo — A Restaurant in the Pines, Lit Only by Candles and Fire

Marismo is my second favorite restaurant. A restaurant totally outdoors, in the sand, tucked under the thick forest of pines, eucalyptuses and acacias, lit only with fire. Everything is cooked with fire.  When I saw pictures of the place in this NY Times article, I knew I had to go here.

My second night ever in Jose Ignacio, I was still a little nervous and apprehensive.  I was traveling by myself. And when I read the directions to get to Marismo, it wasn’t exactly encouraging. I read instructions on how to get there:

“Go down the main beach road, turn left on the second road, no sign. Go down a very dark dirt road, dark as you’ve ever seen, until you see a wooden fish and a bunch of cars parked on the side of the road, then you know you’re there.“

La Susana at Bahia Vik

La Susana was very new on my last visit, old by now. I think they opened it before the hotel to build a buzz, it was kind of in temporary quarters, but the food was incredible. We ducked in during a rainstorm and hung out there eating and drinking the afternoon away.

Since I’ve eaten so many meals at La Huella, leaves little time for other restaurants, but I would recommend eating at Namm, which is outside like Marismo, but Asian. Mostrador de Santa Teresita. And DEFINITELY Francis Mallmann’s Michelin starred restaurant he built 40 minutes inland, in the town of Garzon, which I wrote about in this post, which he owns and restored. he also has a new restaurant in the a new winery called Bodega Garzon.  La Olada. There’s a new restaurant in Rocha, across the new bridge to the north of the laguna. It looks cool, Las Garzas. I believe it is in a new real estate development.

On the Beach Eating at Posada del Faro’s Beach Shack

Where to Stay in Jose Ignacio

There used to just be a single good hotel Jose Ignacio — the Posada del Faro — with a couple of lesser places to stay. It’s run by the wonderful Jose and Carla, masters of the vibe. Love them so much and we’ve been friends for years.

There used to be a law preventing the development of large hotels, or any new hotels, in town to prevent ruining its special vibe. But by a loophole, a few new places have opened in recent years, notably the Playa Vik and the Estancia Vik in the foothills on the rolling hills surrounding the peninsula. Recently, the famed Brazilian Fasano hotel chain opened in nearby La Barra. And most recently the Viks have opened Playa Vik right down the street from Posada del Faro and the perfect sunset pool.  They also opened Bahia Vik, right around the bend.  All the times I’ve visited I’ve stayed at the Posada del Faro, which I think recently changed hands. But it has one of the best locations, the most walkable to to all the restaurants and beaches in town.

There’s also a new hotel that some friends have stayed at and loved, the Posada Ayana. Rave reviews.

Also, for renting a house, I’ve been eyeing this beauty for years, looking to gather up a group to share.  I sent some Rome friends there this year with their whole family and they loved it!  Right off the main Brava beach, in the Dunes development on the way to Laguna Garzon.

I don’t sleep well. When I wake up in the middle of the night…nearly every night… I think of the the waves you hear from Posada del Faro and it lulls me back to sleep.

Posada del Faro

So many cool details. The owners, Carla and Jose, put their heart and soul into creating all these moments. Tell them I said “Hi!”.

You can also stay at the very well reviewed, ultra modern Fasano hotel in nearby La Barra, the next town south of Jose Ignacio. Expect to pay around $700-1000/night. There are some other smaller hotels that have popped up in the area which I haven’t stayed in. Google it.

The Bahia Vik is right on the beach. Friends on Instagram also rave about the new Ayana. Others have recommended the Casa Suaya.

Exploring Beyond Jose Ignacio

Here’s a more recent article from The NY Times on finding the best beaches in Uruguay.  It really describes the wild and wooly beach towns north of Jose Ignacio.

Francis Mallmann’s Amazing Private Pueblo Garzon

Here’s a big post I made on Francis Mallmann’s hotel and restaurant in Garzón.

 This is real gaucho country. You can see my others posts on this cool area.

Here’s a post I made about going to this gaucho festa in Garzón.

Here’s a link to another post I made about staying on a vineyard near Carmelo, Uruguay’s top wine region.

Here’s a post I made about Carmelo Resort in Spa, on the other side of Uruguay.

— Last visited: December 2005 & 2006, March 2011, February 2014, Post Update May 2024 — 

More Information on Jose Ignacio

The word is catching on. Here are several recent articles that give the lowdown…and certainly better written and better shot than my amateur dribble. A repeat of the world-famous La Huella restaurant, one of the best restaurants I’ve ever been to, in Bon Appetit.  In the New York Post, Modern Luxury in Jose Ignacio about the new, cool-but-out-of-place Hotel Vik. A great article on Fathom’s excellent website, which gets better every month. Conde Nast Traveler about what’s jumping in Maldonado, the surrounding state in Uruguay. Even the Daily Mail has written gossip about it!

And if you can’t make it to Uruguay, or afford it, go to Comporta in Portugal, the upcoming beach town that everyone is calling The Next Jose Ignacio.  Here’s a post I did on that cool beach town. Here’s a great article from the NYTimes that perfectly sums up the whole experience. And the Telegraph in London.

You should go here. Here’s a post I made about another tropical paradise, an island 200 miles off the coast of Brazil.