A SECRET HIDEAWAY IN CORSICA THAT IS HEAVEN ON EARTH

by YouShouldGoHere
August 27, 2016
in Eat Here, Go Here, Stay Here
0

[SARTÈNE, CORSICA] — I was having dinner by myself the first night in Corsica at Domaine du Murtoli — one of the most exclusive resorts in France — and sitting back and grinning at all the natural wonder before me in this candle-lit treehouse of a restaurant hidden under the maquis trees. Barefoot waitresses in linen frocks darted under the leaves, bringing drinks, appetizers and cute smiles.

Around the corner came a vision, the most perfectly tanned specimen on this planet. Valérie, the proprietress of this magical haven (and a former model and mother to four beautiful children). She floated on a cloud up to my table and I gulped.

“Bon soir, my name is Valérie. How was your dinner? Did you see your little friend?” with a nod to behind me.

Domaine de Murtoli wild boar at dinner — *I swung around — not suavely, because the wine — and shrieked like a little girl. He snorted at first, which made me jump, just a meter behind me. A wild boar, standing in the shadows.*

I was always taught to fear wild boars, they’ll lunge at you, rip your jugular out with their tusks and shake you ’til your bones fell out. And here I was, face to tusk with this grizzly guy. Trying to act cool in front of madame.

Turns out he was totally mellow. Stopped by the restaurant every night just to say ‘allo, tentatively standing off to the side under the up-lit trees, with a solemn look like “You gonna eat that extra chop?” This paradise is so wonderful and calming, even the boars walk around like they’re boers wearing a smoking jacket, carrying a snifter and a snort.

And that’s how this week in paradise at Domaine de Murtoli started. It got better from there.

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Domaine de Murtoli isn’t really a hotel, per se, but a huge private hunting estate saddled between the sea and Corsica’s shark tooth interior mountains. And one of the coolest places I’ve ever stayed.

Domaine du Murtoli is a resort of private villas, golf course, a working ranch and a hunting reserve. So wherever you drive around the immense property there are animals. You feel one with the land. Chianina cows, fluffy sheep, game birds of every feather, and boars. Wild boars. Dozens of them scattered about, often with their teeny baby boars in tow.

In the same family for generations, there are only fifteen or so thick stone houses spread across all 5,000 acres, each only available to rent by the week or longer. From quaint two person former sheep bergeries, to larger rustic outbuildings fit for a family, each pristinely restored and decorated just like you’d want … and then some — which Conde Nast Traveller aptly describes as “Ralph Lauren meets Jean de Fleurette.” Couldn’t agree more.

Domaine du Murtoli — A Stunning Private Estate in Southern Corsica

The vast Domaine tumbles down to the turquoise sea, with a kilometers-long sandy beach with hardly anyone on it. There’s another beach around the corner that is so private you can only go there if you are renting one of the houses on it. I so wanted to peek.

About the only crowds you run into are when huge yachts and sloops pull in and everyone swims in to lunch. Giggling. Their matching dinghies shuttling their sarongs and sunglasses in for a long, lazy meal.

So with only 30-40 people spread out over all that land, there’s plenty of elbow room… and most people you never see, which is why this is one of the most coveted places for celebrity and famous person privacy.

So rather than call it a hotel, “domaine” seems just the right name for it.

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After driving down the crazy curvy two lane road from Ajaccio, you must pay specific instructions in your pre-arrival packet. Down to the kilometers on your odometer. You pull behind a building off the side of the roadside bar, busy with its own purpose, and then follow a bumpy dirt road behind it — thinking this must be where the trash truck must go.

And then there it is. An innocuous gate that looks nicer than the backdoor surroundings. There is no sign. Just a blind gate. This has gotta be it.

You see a buzzer and ring it. “Bon soir!”

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Plage d'Erbaju waves — *Look, there’s a guy on the beach! Waaaaay down there. Where else in Europe can you find such a pristine beach with only a couple of people on it??*

So this is what Corsica looks like. Not the cranky pebbled beaches you might be accustomed to in a lot of southern France and most of Italy. This is smooth, silky stuff you want to scrunch your toes into.

The geology of southern Corsica is so similar to the dreamy velvety beaches of nearby Sardinia, it’s almost like they were brothers ripped apart from each other, which they were, long ago. Severe pointy granite mountains inland, lumps of big soft round boulders and feathery sand on the edges, with see-thru martini water lapping on the shores.

Domaine de Murtoli beach dining table view

Domaine de Murtoli map — *You can see how big the estate is, they even give you a map. Even though some houses are inland, they may be on a mountaintop with sea views. Others in protected canyons.*

Once you pass through the locked front gates, you never have to leave the property again. Nor want to.

Domaine de Murtoli cows — *The domaine is a working farm — where they raise almost all of their food — and a game reserve in the winter time. There are wild boar families all over the place.*

Domaine de Murtoli river — *A clear spring runs from the mountains to the beach, serving a central role every day as it changes course through the sand*.

Plage d'Erbaju sand sailboats mooring — The beach is pretty much accessible to the outside world only by boat. Every day there’s a batch of new sailboats or giant luxe yachts dropping anchor for the night, or to swim in for a long lunch at La Table de la Plage, nestled in the pines along the beach.

When I was there in 2015, a crazy looking yacht pulled up — seems common now, but very unusual then — and a dinghy trundled into shore carrying a gaggle of boisterous people, one a VERY famous American female tennis star who just competed in the French Open and her entourage.

They whiled away the afternoon dining and drinking under the shade of the pines and myrtle trees of La Table de la Plage before heading back to their yacht, the laughing much louder. THAT sums up the Murtoli experience.

Roccapina best beach — *Right around the next cove is Roccapina beach. You can hike up to that tower and look down to the emerald green clear water.*

The Private Villas at Domaine du Murtoli

With only a dozen or more houses spread over 5,000 rolling wooded acres of pristine hunting lands, everyone pretty much gets their own hilltop or private canyon. You can check all the different villas here.

Some face the sea, some look over natural pine forests and others nestled between giant elephant rocks.

The visionary owner and moviestar good-looking Paul Canarelli, has spent the last few decades taking rustic old buildings on his grandfather’s farm and tricking out their humble insides with all the greatest creature comforts one could desire. Like mini La Cornue kitchens, Ralph Lauren Home-quality sturdy antiques, stone fireplaces and nice sheets.

But the greatest thing they have is privacy. Ain’t nobody around to see you walking around naked…

Domaine de Murtoli private villa in trees — With only a dozen or more houses spread over 5,000 rolling wooded acres of pristine hunting lands, everyone pretty much gets their own hilltop or private canyon. Some face the sea, some look over natural pine forests and others nestled between giant elephant rocks.

rock formations Domaine de Murtoli — *For those seeking ultimate privacy — like presidents and movie stars — there are two villas in a super-private area that even other guests can’t visit, complete with their own private beach*.

My Bergerie for the Week — A Tiria

This was my little sheepherder’s house — called A Tiria — I had it for the week in a mid July at Domaine de Murtoli. It was one the smallest homes (and least expensive) on the estate, but just perfect for a couple, or just me.

The two foot thick walls work as well now as they did three hundred years ago — cool as a cucumber in the summer, warm to the touch in winter. No need for A/C. And no telephones or TVs. This is where you come to get away from it all. .

A Tiria villa Domaine de Murtoli — *Every villa is so secluded, nobody else can see in. Like everyone gets their own hilltop or valley. I was naked around here most of the time.*

A Tiria pool Domaine de Murtoli — About the prettiest little wading pool there ever was. Every villa has its own pool. Some big, some small like my little pool. Hanging on the side of a cliff, you can sit back and watch the world not go by. I spent hours soaking in the cool water.

Domaine de Murtoli A Tiria outdoor kitchen setup

Each of the the bergeries you rent by the week has a totally kitted out outdoor kitchen area. In fact, this is where you spend most of your time when you’re not down at the beach.

Before your arrival, they ask for a shopping list, so the full fridge is stocked when you get here, every last thing. And you have a beast of a La Cornue range and a searing plancha at your disposal, all right here looking out toward the sea.

A Tiria outdoor kitchen view Domaine de Murtoli — *From your outdoor kitchen, you can be cooking and see all the way down to the yachts in the sea.*

Domaine de Murtoli A Tiria view — *This is your backyard view from A Tiria, soaring mountains and no other people.*

Domaine de Murtoli view of sea — *And the front yard views go all the way down to the sea.*

Domaine de Murtoli pool view over golfcourse

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Domaine de Murtoli A Tiria table setting

So this is what breakfast is like at Domaine de Murtoli. You’re still sleeping and beautiful angels dressed in purple linen silently arrive at your hilltop with a Little Red Riding Hood basket of still-warm croissants, fresh-squeezed juice and small plucked twigs of myrtle and rosemary placed just so.

You wake up all bleary, walk out into the sun, smile at the pool and then into the summer kitchen. Where this is waiting for you.

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Domaine de Murtoli yachts in bay — *Everyday you wake up and you don’t know what yacht has pulled in for a bite. Or who’s on it.*

Dining at Domaine du Murtoli

As if the houses weren’t cool enough, the restaurants are the best part. Three great restaurants spread out over the estate, one on the beach, one is in a grotto and another on the farm.

Purple is the theme of everything throughout Domaine de Murtoli. The most perfect purple, ever. Cushions, table cloths, napkins, uniforms. It works so well

La Table de la Plage

La Table de la Plage is the main restaurant by the beach, like the heartbeat of the Domaine. Nestled under a knitting of olive trees, myrtle and maquis branches, this is the place to be.

Most people hang out at their own villas most of the day, but it’s only at lunch or dinner you realize there are others in the resort. People pull up in their yachts and boat or swim to shore just to eat here. With no pier, they have to wade through the shallow water and roll up their pants legs, which is part of the experience.

Domaine de Murtoli dinner table on beach

The design is like Elle Decor meets Swiss Family Robinson, with a little bit a Tarzan thrown in. (Some may have to google that) and about the sexiest restaurant there ever was.

driftwood couch on beach Domaine de Murtoli

Domaine de Murtoli walkway to La Table de La Plage

Domaine de Murtoli lunch at restaurant — *Like Swiss Family Robinson meets Elle Decor.*

Domaine de Murtoli seating area at restaurant

Every night there’s a different surprise at La Table de la Plage, just to keep things interesting since nobody ever leaves during the week. One special night they brought in a local Corsican fisherman, perched precariously in the sand on a small three-legged stool, a wooden crate of freshly harvested sea urchins at his side. He cracked each open with an Opinel, a device almost as pretty as the spiny creatures, carefully placing each on a broad white plate like a food stylist, smiling; might have been missing a tooth or two.

It was my first time, but I think I decided I do not like the urchins. But like Negronis, an acquired taste. I gave it my best try, but left the best parts for the frenetic bees. They sure do look good on a plate, though… like a cover on Bon Appétit.

La Plage lunch Domaine de Murtoli — *Lunch from the gods.*

As night falls, the lights in the La Table de la Plage come up and the food comes out. Beautiful tanned and barefoot servers in simple white cotton dresses pad about the staggered wooden terraces, intimate tables tucked into alcoves nestled into the trees. Innumerable candles are lit.

A local Corsican band croons plaintive ballads as grilled seafood and lamb from the Domaine rolls out, course after course. Made even better with wine from the Clos Canarelli, the family’s own respected label, produced right around the corner.

sunset cocktails Domaine de Murtoli — *The perfect Negroni spot*

Domaine de Murtoli La Table du Plage at night

La Table de la Grotte

Once or twice a week they serve dinner in the elephant rocks above the valley, called La Grotte. Yep, dinner in a hidden cave, at La Grotte. Lit only by candles. Or outside, tucked between giant boulders.

Domaine de Murtoli La Grotte terrace dining

Domaine de Murtoli La Grotte Table candles

Domaine de Murtoli La Grotte dining nook

La Table de la Ferme

I didn’t even realize La Ferme was there until near the end of my stay. It’s inland, on the other side of the golf course, it has a large lap pool and indoor and outdoor seating, year-round. I believe they also have smaller rooms that you can rent vs. a villa.