A SECRET HIDEAWAY IN CORSICA THAT IS HEAVEN ON EARTH

by YouShouldGoHere
August 27, 2016
in Eat Here, Go Here, Stay Here
0

[SARTÈNE, CORSICA] — I was having dinner by myself the first night in Corsica at Domaine du Murtoli — one of the most exclusive resorts in France — and sitting back and grinning at all the natural wonder before me in this candle-lit treehouse of a restaurant hidden under the maquis trees. Barefoot waitresses in linen frocks darted under the leaves, brining drinks, appetizers and cute smiles.

Around the corner came a vision, the most perfectly tanned specimen on this planet. Valérie, the proprietress of this magical haven (and a former model and mother to four beautiful children). She floated on a cloud up to my table and I gulped.

“Bon soir, my name is Valérie. How was your dinner? Did you see your little friend?” with a nod to behind me.

I swung around — not suavely, because the wine — and shrieked like a little girl. He snorted at first, which made me jump, just a meter behind me. A wild boar, standing in the shadows.

Domaine du Murtoli is a resort, golf course, a working ranch and a hunting reserve. So wherever you drive around the immense property there are animals. You feel one with the land. Chianina cows, fluffy sheep, game birds of every feather, and boars. Wild boars. Dozens of them scattered about, often with their teeny baby boars in tow.

I was always taught to fear wild boars, they’ll lunge at you, rip your jugular out with their tusks and shake you ’til your bones fell out. And here I was, face to tusk with this grizzly guy. Trying to act cool in front of madame.

Turns out he was totally mellow. Stopped by the restaurant every night just to say ‘allo, tentatively standing off to the side under the up-lit trees, with a solemn look like “You gonna eat that extra chop?” This paradise is so wonderful and calming, even the boars walk around like they’re boers wearing a smoking jacket, carrying a snifter and a snort.

And that’s how this week in paradise at Domaine de Murtoli started.

It got better from there.

Domaine de Murtoli isn’t really a hotel, per se, but a huge private hunting estate saddled between the sea and Corsica’s shark tooth interior mountains. And one of the coolest places I’ve ever stayed. Bar none.

In the same family for generations, there are only a dozen or so thick stone houses spread across all 5,000 acres, each only available to rent by the week or longer. From quaint two person former sheep bergeries, to larger rustic outbuildings fit for a family, each pristinely restored and decorated just like you’d want … and then some — which Conde Nast Traveller aptly describes as “Ralph Lauren meets Jean de Fleurette.” Couldn’t agree more.

Domaine du Murtoli — A Stunning Private Estate in Southern Corsica

The vast Domaine tumbles down to the turquoise sea, with a kilometers long sandy beach with hardly anyone on it. There's another beach around the corner that is so private you can only go there if you are renting one of the houses on it. I so wanted to peek. About the only crowds you run into are when huge yachts and sloops pull in and everyone swims in to lunch. Giggling. Their matching dinghies shuttling their sarongs and sunglasses in for a lazy long meal. When you get antsy hanging out in your private sheepfold with its fully stocked kitchens, there are three incredible restaurants scattered throughout the estate: one camouflaged among the maquis right over there, another on the inland organic farm (where they raise all their own produce and make their own fantastic wine) and yet another gem tucked into a candle-lit cave. Once you pass through the locked front gates, you never have to leave the property again. Nor want to. — *The vast Domaine tumbles down to the turquoise sea, with a kilometers-long sandy beach with hardly anyone on it.* *There’s another beach around the corner that is so private you can only go there if you are renting one of the houses on it. I so wanted to peek.*

About the only crowds you run into are when huge yachts and sloops pull in and everyone swims in to lunch. Giggling. Their matching dinghies shuttling their sarongs and sunglasses in for a lazy long meal. *Once you pass through the locked front gates, you never have to leave the property again. Nor want to.*

So with only 30-40 people spread out over all that land, there’s plenty of elbow room… and most people you never see, which is why this is one of the most coveted places for celebrity and famous person privacy.

So rather than call it a hotel, “domaine” seems just the right name for it.

After driving down the crazy curvy two lane road from Ajaccio, you must pay specific instructions in your pre-arrival packet. Down to the kilometers on your odometer. You pull behind a building off the side of the roadside bar, busy with its own purpose and then follow a bumpy dirt road behind it — thinking this must be where the trash truck must go. And then it is. An innocuous gate that looks nicer than the surroundings. There is no sign. Just a blind gate. This must be it. You see a buzzer and ring it. “Bon soir!”

Domaine de Murtoli map — *You can see how big the estate is, they even give you a map. Even though some houses are inland, they may be on a mountaintop with sea views. Others in protected canyons.*

Plage d'Erbaju — *“Look, there’s a guy on the beach!” Just one guy, on this whole beach.*

This is not Nice. So this is what Corsica looks like. Not the cranky pebbled beaches you might be accustomed to in a lot of southern France and most of Italy. This is smooth, silky stuff you want to scrunch your toes into. The geology of southern Corsica is so similar to the dreamy velvety beaches of nearby Sardinia, it’s almost like they were brothers ripped apart from each other, which they were, long ago. Severe pointy granite mountains inland, lumps of big soft round boulders and feathery sand on the edges, with see-thru martini water lapping on the shores.

Domaine du Murtoli private villas — *For those seeking ultimate privacy — like Presidents and movie stars — there are two villas in a super-private area that other guests can’t visit, complete with their own private beach*.

Roccapina beach cove Corsica — *Right around the next cove is Roccapina beach. You can hike up to that tower (photos elsewhere in this post) and look down to the emerald green clear water.*

*The incomparable Roccapina beach, the next cove down. You can hike to the top of the separating mountain, with views all up and down the coast.*

The Private Villas at Domaine du Murtoli

With only a dozen or more houses spread over 5,000 rolling wooded acres of pristine hunting lands, everyone pretty much gets their own hilltop or private canyon.

Some face the sea, some look over natural pine forests and others nestled between giant elephant rocks.

The visionary owner and moviestar good-looking Paul Canarelli, has spent the last few decades taking rustic old buildings on his grandfather’s farm and tricking out their humble insides with all the greatest creature comforts one could desire. Like mini La Cornue kitchens, Ralph Lauren Home-quality sturdy antiques, stone fireplaces and nice sheets.

But the greatest thing they have is privacy. Ain’t nobody around to see you walking around naked…

Domaine de Murtoli house on hill — *But the greatest thing they have is privacy. Ain’t nobody around to see you walking around naked…*

Domaine de Murtoli A Tiria pool view — *Oh look… they have a pool!* *About the prettiest little wading pool there ever was. Hanging on the side of a cliff, you can sit back and watch the world not go by.*

Each of the the bergeries you rent by the week has a totally kitted out outdoor kitchen area. In fact, this is where your spend most of your time when you’re not down at the beach. Before your arrival, you send a shopping list, so the full fridge is stocked when you get here; every last thing. And you have a beast of a La Cornue range and a searing plancha at your disposal, all right here.

*From your outdoor kitchen, you can be cooking and see all the way down to the yachts in the sea.*

This was my little sheepherder’s house — called A Tiria — I had for the week last July at Domaine de Murtoli. It was one the smallest homes (and least expensive) on the estate, but just perfect for a couple, or just me. The visionary owner and moviestar good-looking Paul Canarelli, has spent the last few decades taking rustic old buildings on his grandfather’s farm and tricking out their humble insides with all the greatest creature comforts one could desire. Like mini La Cornue kitchens, Ralph Lauren Home-quality sturdy antiques, stone fireplaces and nice sheets. The two foot thick walls work as well now as they did three hundred years ago — cool as a cucumber in the summer, warm to the touch in winter. No need for A/C. And no telephones or TVs and barely any wifi or cell service. This is where you come to get away from it all. .

Domaine de Murtoli A Tiria table setting

So this is what breakfast is like at Domaine de Murtoli. You’re still sleeping and beautiful angels dressed in purple arrive at your hilltop with a Little Red Riding Hood basket of hot baked croissants, fresh-squeezed juice and small plucked twigs of myrtle and rosemary placed just so. White linens to catch the crumbs.

You wake up all bleary, walk out into the sun, smile at the pool and then into the summer kitchen. Where this is waiting for you. Silently they move, those angels. They’re in and gone before you even realize they were there. Just a breakfast from heaven. Whenever you’re ready.

*Every villa is so secluded, nobody else can see in. Like everyone get’s their own hilltop or valley. I was naked around here most of the time.*

With only a dozen or more houses spread over 5,000 rolling wooded acres of pristine hunting lands, everyone pretty much gets their own hilltop or private canyon. Some face the sea, some look over natural pine forests and others nestled between giant elephant rocks.

*Everyday you wake up and you don’t know what yacht has pulled in for a bite. Or who’s on it.*

Dining at Domaine du Murtoli

La Table de la Plage Murtoli restaurant chairs — *Like Swiss Family Robinson, but French. And on the beach.*

As if the houses weren’t cool enough, the restaurants are the best part. Three great restaurants spread out over the estate, one on the beach, one is a grotto and another on the farm. The design is like Elle Decor meets Swiss Family Robinson, with a little bit a Tarzan thrown in. (Some may have to google that).

Purple is the theme of everything throughout Domaine de Murtoli. The most perfect purple, ever. Cushions, table cloths, napkins, uniforms. It works so well.