[MARRAKESH, MOROCCO] — It is the drums that get you first. A full-frontal, heart-fibrillating pounding of Berber rhythms. So intense and staccato-firing that Buddy Rich would have a hard time keeping up. And the flutes. The ear-piercing, high pitched whine of the flutes, constant, taunting cobras to dance on the hot stones. And the people. The rush of endless people. Of every shape, size, color, religion, sunburn, clothing, shape, shoe-type/non-shoe-wearing. And the breeze. A steady wave of warm air that makes the palms, the long robes, the billowing smoke from the merguez grilling in the food stalls all harmonized and flowing like caught in the same current of a river.

“Heeeeyyyyyy” he says in an eerily friendly Americanized accent, scaring me from behind. I jumped. And so did the monkey. Instantly onto my shoulder. He had a turban. And a smile. “Want to take a picture with the monkey?”

“Ahhh no thanks.” “You sure? He’s a nice monkey. Your friends will laugh.” The monkey was digging for something in my scalp, which I appreciated.

That is what my first three minutes were like in the Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The beating heart of Marrakesh. Alive in the day with street vendors, then just before sunset they all disappear and the square completely changes character.

Thousands of people, actually not that many tourists, fill the square with life. Teaming life. Tuk-tuk drivers. Mothers dragging their kids. Old men gossiping over cigarettes. Several groups of snake-handlers, with their flutes taunting cobras. Acrobatic troops, ringed with people cheering them on. Twenty smiling young Moroccans with fishing poles in a circle, trying to ring a bottle. Dozens of food stalls vendors, throwing their sales pitch to locals and foreigners alike; from fresh-squeezed orange juice (delish!) to merguez sausages, to great Brontosaurus-sized ribs of lamb on a spit that Fred Flintstone would love.  All of them twirling in their own rhythm and sound, busy with motion within their own five square feet, yet somehow synchronized to the breeze. And there was my monkey.

Watch this. Look closely, there is a story in every corner of every frame. And definitely turn your sound up:

I really didn’t want to go there, actually. People said “Not sure you’re going to like it. Very crowded. Lots of crazy stuff going on. People pulling you into to their stalls.”  I don’t like people, actually. Or crowds. But I decided to go anyway. As you should. Good god, I’m glad I did. The Humanity present and coexisting, all at once. Every single night. All there. Makes you feel good.

The vendors, not aggressive, just friendly. They just want to surprise you with their hospitality. And crack you up with their Henny Youngman-esque standup routines. Not the pawing, baying street urchins you see in other countries. “I’m just looking around right now.” “I know, lots to see. Just remember Stall #38, you come back. You’ll like.”

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On my second visit over Christmas of 2018, the feeling was completely opposite. It felt like coming home to a familiar and trusting place. This time I was ecstatic to be back, wanting to explore what I’d been too scared on my first few nights in Marrakesh. And instead of traveling solo like I usually do, I had a travel buddy/love interest to dive into this crazy place with fresh eyes — also so much easier to explore with someone else along for encouragement and spontaneous bravery.

People ask me all the time: “Is Morocco safe?” Yes, and hell yes. It’s only scary the first time because it’s so overwhelming to your senses. But by Day 2, you’ll feel like this is your place.

Do you have to be wary of hucksters and pickpockets? Probably good to just be aware, but also I’ve experienced nothing but the most sincere friendliness, from people in all walks of life. I’ve felt more unsafe and taken for a ruse in Rome and Paris — where on this last trip, I was hoodwinked by a confident scammer exactly two minutes after arriving at Gare du Nord.

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Here are some of my favorite things to do in Marrakesh… a big, loud, belching, beautiful chaotic place.

So many heart-stopping moments. Smells and scents. Colors and textures. Blaring sounds and intense quiet. Light and dark. Morocco is a challenge of the senses.

Get Lost in the Souks of the Medina

On my first trip to Marrakesh, I didn’t really want to go walk and shop the souks. Perhaps because I was scared. I heard about how crowded and dirty and all the haggling. Well, it is that, but also not. On this trip I was all up for it. And I just walked and walked and walked. Was there some barkers and hagglers?  Yes, but in a fun way, not the in-your-face I was expecting. It was more for fun. These guys are just trying to make a living.

Just go get lost in the souks. It’s a blast.

You don’t have to buy anything. You will get lost. But you’ll soon find your way to weave through.

Definitely Go To Jemaa el-Fnaa at Dusk

This is my nomination for the craziest place on earth. Snake charmers, monkey tamers, Berber drummers, games of chance. All happening all at once. The cacaphony is so crazy it just makes you smile.

Go before sunset and roost at one of the cafes overlooking the Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The vendors are switch over from selling things to new vendors selling food, grilled on the spot. So cool to watch under the peach colored sky. And everywhere you zoom into is a crazy site for the eyes.

Visit the Majorelle Gardens

A must stop for everyone is the Majorelle Garden — Jardin Majorelle. It’s beautiful, but very crowded, so go early or late in the day. It’s a crazy riot of plants and colors, it even has its own color of blue.  You can hoof it here from the Medina, or take a cab. Spend about an hour inside. Or less. Then go have a long fun lunch at Cafe de la Poste (detailed below).

Buy Nice Things at Mustapha Blaoui

Walking back to my hotel each time, I noticed a nice sign and logo and big burnished wooden door in the midst of the dirty crowded streets of the souk.  Wow, wonder what that place is?  So I wrote down the name and googled it. When I read fantastic reviews — “Where you go to outfit your whole new house in Marrakesh” — I knew I had to go there.

The souk is great for buying cheap things, but if you want to by some nice stuff, find Mustapha Blaoui on your GPS and go there. The big wooden door looks like it is closed, but go through the little door and traipse inside. It multiple floors of the coolest things you’d want for your house.

Cool Off in Le Jardin Secret

I’d never heard of this place before until somebody suggested it when I was posting on Instagram. Le Jardin Secret. When you hit the wall of walking around the chaos of the souks, hidden behind the walls in the middle of the Medina is this incredible, cool, calm oasis. It used to be here long ago, but fell into disrepair, but was restored years ago to its former glory. Duck in, it only takes twenty minutes or so, longer if you want to hang out.

It costs a few bucks, but worth it to come inside and look at the incredible plantings and want to nap by the trickles of its fountains. Some really interesting Roman-style aqueduct engineering here as it is fed from water from the Atlas Mountains an hour away.

Tour the Ben Youssef Madrasa

The famous four hundred year old Ben Youseff Madrasa  is really cool to see, but was under renovation when we were there. I believe it has just reopened, definitely put it on your list. It’s beautiful.

You Should Eat Here in Marrakech

Stop for Drinks at El Fenn…Even Better, Stay There

El Fenn is most famous because it is run by Richard Branson’s sister, but I think that doesn’t compare at all to how well done this hotel is. We tried to stay here but it was booked solid over the busy Christmas holiday. Lots of fashion people and reporters stay here and you can see why. It’s much bigger than I thought, but the details in every corner are as perfect as you’d want.

This is perfect example of how I think Morocco has the best hotel design in the world, creating worlds behind the walls.

Even if you’re not staying here, you can have drinks on the perfect rooftop terrace, the classiest in Marrakesh, IMO.

Go before sunset or dusk and sit up on the roof and have a cocktail on the many lounge areas. I thought it was going to be chaotic and hard to get in because it is so famous, but it was a breeze. The staff was very nice.

Even better, stay here if you can…

Have a Long Lunch at Cafe de la Poste

Book a Big Meal at Villa des Orangers

Have a Tagine at Café Des Épices

Order a Mint Tea Wherever You Are

— First Visited April 2015, Last Visited December 2018 — 

TIPS:

• Everything is different at night. The sun goes down. The candles and lanterns come out. Thousands of them. Man, do these people know how to light things. I don’t know if was the French that taught them, or they taught the French. If you like it during the day, you’ll love it better at night.

• You’re going to get lost on your way back to your hotel. Don’t sweat it; even a blind squirrel finds a nut, eventually. Just remember landmarks behind you so you can backtrack.

• It might be hot and dusty, or might not be. I’d go in April. May was getting really hot. Not after that. Fall would be beautiful

• When you go to the square, shoot for 4-5pm. Find a cafe with a rooftop terrace, very easy to do; I suggest Glacier Cafe where I took these, you buy a soft drink self-serve, then go out on the terrace and wiggle your way to the edge. I could (and did) stay there for hours. The drums will reward you for staying. You want to be there as dusk comes, the square gets dark and the stall lights come to life. It is magical. Eat a merguez at the Hassan stand in the corner of my picture.

• Everyone is super nice. Super proud. You’ll hear the word “Berber” a lot. Read up a little about it, don’t dismiss it. When you leave, you’ll understand it more. And love them. I wish there were more Berbers in this world.

More Info On What to Do In Marrakesh

Here are other posts I’ve made on Marrakesh. Where to stay, what to do.

Great article on the souks in Travel & Leisure. And here in Insight Guides. And an overview on Culture Trip.

A great review of the top things to do on CNN. And Time Out’s Guide to Marrakesh. And a good guide from The Telegraph. And a perfect guide from the amazing photographer duo from The Planet D. And the always dependable NY Times 36 Hours Guide on Marrakesh.

And another great guide from the NY Times on where to eat in Marrakesh ( I wish I read this before my last trip!). And a 48 hours Guide from The Independent.