[PIEMONTE, ITALY] —  Mid October is a busy season here in Barolo. Most of the grapes have already been picked, but because of recent rains there’s more to go. A couple of hot days of sun and we’re good to go.

Laying down for a nap, I can hear gargling tractors drive by on the famous Via Ginestra, their rattling trailers rushing to the crushing. This is also the beginning of truffle season, here in the white truffle capital of the world, everyone securing their stash like drug dealers.

I walked into Monforte d’Alba for a quiet lunch in the busy piazza. After shaving luscious white truffle tubers like pencil fines, Alberto, the owner of the wonderfully named Grappolo d’Oro hotel (The Golden Grape) said, “Wait, I want to show you some something special. I just got it this morning.”

He came back and unraveled a foil bundle carefully, like a rabbi preparing for a bris. In it a golden orb the size of a fist. “Smell it.”  Mmmmmmmm. “Wowwww. How much does it weigh?” “One hundred grams.” Then he looks left, then right, wrapped it up like new diapers and scurried back inside, turning back and commenting. “By the way, I’m a big Broncos fan…”

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It was a whirlwind four days in Piemonte in Northwestern Italy, snuggled right up against the Alps, France just over the hills.  Those few days were crammed full of crisscrossing Monforte d’Alba and the Langhe region, meeting winemakers, tasting a million wines that I don’t know about, eating at killer restaurants, harvesting a great friend’s first Barolo vintage and hanging with a a peck of new friends.

I was guided by an American friend that owned land there, very rare, but his personality was so infectious that he could run for mayor. Everywhere we went we’d hear calls of “Ciaaao Jon!” and then hugs and air kisses. We scooted around from winery to winery, running errands, stopping by friends or having an aperitivo in town before heading to dinner.

Monforte d’Alba is the perfect hilltop village to base your exploration of Barolo and Langhe wine region. Just an hour south of Turin, it’s an easy jump from the plane to the hills. White capped mountains peak out from the high humidity of the valley below, smiling on sunny days.  There are bigger towns and cities, but few match the character of Monforte.

Grapes and truffles are the economy here, every acre planted to the gills with vines.  Big tractors full of grapes ramble down the narrow roadways.

Gawd this region is great, how have I never been here before? Vieni qui!

There’s a lot of humidity that gets trapped in this beautiful vineyard valley, which creates a soft haze. But on clear days you can see the stunning Alps way off in the distance.

Great Places to Eat In And Around Monforte d’Alba

Grappolo D’Oro — “The Golden Grape”

Sitting in the main piazza of Monforte d’Alba, sipping a nice garnet colored Nebbiolo in the shade, watching the wine world go by.  That’s about as good as it gets. Grappolo d’Oro is the perfect place for a long lunch.  Come say hi to Alberto and his twin brother, both a constant presence inside and outside, chatting up the town and guests. 

Barolo Bar

The Barolo Bar is the center of Monforte, seems like nearly everyone makes a stop there at some point of the day.  You can buy wine, taste wine, have an aperitivo and a light bite.  It’s the perfect Italian center-of-town bar.

Le Case della Saracca

Incredibly fun fun meal at Le Case della Saracca with a bunch of new friends who treat me like family. This place rocks. Meat. Vino. Super super sweet peoples, mostly women.

It’s carved out of this treasured hill, right in the middle of Monforte. The ancient outsides bely the modern interior, with glass walls and floors and steps penetrating the many caverns inside, light illuminating the wine collection.

Repubblica di Perno

In a little hamlet straddling the hills outside of the town of Monforte there’s an unassuming little roadside restaurant, box bushes and astroturf the only thing separating your plate from the street. Repubblica di Perno served one of the best meals I had in Piemonte. Run by a husband and wife team — he cooks, she serves — eating there is like pulling up to a family table.

 

Marc Lanteri Ristorante al Castello Grinzane Cavour

We had an incredible meal at the Michelin starred Marc Lanteri Restaurant at famous UNESCO World Heritage designated Castello di Grinzane Cavour.

[EDITOR’S NOTE: Amy and Marc have moved their restaurant from Castello Grinzane Cavour to another place nearby., which looks even prettier. ]

Such a cool place, the castle dating back to the 13th Century, then added on in the 15th and again in the 1850s. I feel achey like that.

It’s insanely busy during truffle season but the delightful Amy — Chef Marc’s wife from Ouray Colorado — treated us like we were the only ones in the entire Castello. We talked hunting wild boars and bad bears and she proved to be an Olympic caliber bubblegum blower. Book in advance.

Restaurant Marc Lanteri Al Castello is actually inside this ancient castle.

 

Vineyard Visits in Monforte d’Alba

Cerretto cellars

Where to Stay in Monforte d’Alba

My friend Jon owns a cute little B&B called La Casa Gialla (The Yellow House) right off the famed Via Ginestra.  It’s right outside of Monforte and within walking distance. Lovely to walk home after a big filling dinner. The compound has two buildings and several apartments you can rent, with their own kitchens and balconies. The whole place is run by the delightful Marghe and her husband Mario and beautiful (and funny) daughter Martina. They make you feel like you’re staying as a guest in their home.

Here’s Expedia’s list of the 1o Best Hotels in Monforte.  Villa Beccaris is the top rated hotel in the region and it right in the heart of Monforte.

Grappolo D’oro also is a hotel in the main piazza of Monforte. Highly recommend staying with those guys, eat their amazing food and watch the wine world go by the center of town.

 

Additional Information on Piedmont and Monforte d’Alba

Here’s a great article on Monforte d’Alba from A Taste of Travel blog.  Here’s a very good web resources on Langhe.net. Here’s TripAdvisor’s Monforte Guide.  And a good Monforte guide from the great website The Kittchen.   Here’s the official city of Monforte’s webpage (in Italian).

Here’s a great article from The Telegraph on a weekend in Monforte. Here’s a list of vineyards from the Monforte tourism website.

Here’s a great list of the Best Hiking Trails in Monforte d’Alba.  That little outdoor theater above has some of the best names in jazz play there every summer. Here’s list of what’s coming up.

Here’s a great article in Forbes about the Langhe region of Barolo. And another good Forbes article on Nebbiolo grape. An article on the Internationl White Truffle Fair.

Here’s a link to my other post on harvesting grapes in Barolo.