[SPLIT, CROATIA] — I knew she would be big. I had no idea she’d be THIS big. It was the pictures that got me first. Our awesome travel agent Ginny had been sending me pics of boats all over. “We want something cool” I’d said, these are my best friends. “Can you find a Turkish gulet in Croatia?” I’d seen gulets while on a regular sailboat in Greece, they’re so much better than a typical sailboat. I had space-envy. I made a note in my book: “Rent Turkish gulet one day.” I liked how they’re all built around a big broad dining table straddling across the back, not everyone scrunched in a tight sailing cockpit all the time. My travel agent could only find a
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[TABERNASH, COLORADO] — If you’re looking for a Colorado ranch getaway, away from the slopes, but close enough, Devil’s Thumb Ranch is what you’re looking for. Outside the ski resort of Winter Park and just past the little town of Tabernash, Devil’s Thumb is setup to be its own self-contained year-round mountain resort. Focused in winter on the 100km of groomed cross-country ski trails, spa and other cold activities. There’s 100km of groomed cross-country ski trails like this at Devil’s Thumb Ranch, weaving in and around 6,000 glorious acres on a big ranch not far from the Continental Divide* in Colorado. At 8,500ft (2,600m) elevation you not only see your breath, but breathlessly feel it too, under the big bluebird sky. You can scoot and
[KEARNEY, NEBRASKA] — I’ve come to Kearney to see the great migration of the sandhill cranes twice now, once in Mid March 2016 and again in the first week of April in 2023, which was the tail end of the migration. Here’s an overview of what to see and how to plan your visit to see the great migration of of sandhill cranes in Kearney Nebraska. These amazing ancient and magnificent birds. _______________________________________ When you first get to the river, it’s 6am and pitch black. You feel your way down a path, heading toward The Noise. The purring, cooing a fluttering or hundreds of thousands of cranes, sleep-standing in the shallow river. Slowly, the shrieks get louder and louder as the first light slowly begins to
[MAREMMA, TUSCANY] — Maremma is the hidden gem of Tuscany on the southern coastal edge of Tuscany and goes from the hilly and ferrous inland to the varyingly wild-horse-roaming, swampy and rocky coast. Here are some of the best things to do in Maremma and what to do in Maremma over a couple of days. After four days in Bologna — two and half of them in bed with a violent flu — I was ready to come here and just sit in the sun by the pool at Il Pellicano and just eat my way back to health. But after a couple days of restoration, I couldn’t help but explore the famous area in and around Monte Argentario. I only had time for a daytrip
[VAL BADIA, ITALY] — An overview of hiking in Alta Badia Italy and the Fanes-Senese-Braies Nature Reserve in the Dolomites. Best hikes Alta Badia. And hiking from San Cassiano and best hikes Italian Dolomites. Fanes-Senese-Braies. I know that’s a mouthful. But I didn’t name it. The Fanes–Senes–Braies Natural Park. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I’ve seen it called Nature Reserve, Natural Park and Nature Park… like everything around here, it has three or more names. I’m going with Natural Park. The Dolomites are aren’t just one range, but dozens. Kinda confusing really, trying to piece it all together. It’s all called “Dolomites” or “Alto Adige” and “Süd Tyrol” … and in a part of Italy that was once part of Austria. Some people here speak
[TRENTINO–ITALY] — I’ve taken the hike to Rifugio Rifugio Tuckett e Sella twice now and I still think it’s one of the best hikes in the Brenta Dolomites. Hike the in the Brenta Dolomites to to Rifugio Tuckett. The best hike in the Brenta Dolomites. A great hike from Madonna di Campiglio. These are photos from those two different hikes to Rifugio Tuckett. _____________________________ “Theeesa eesa the one.” she said, in that lovely Italian way of needing to add a vowel onto every word. “Theesa onea is da besta hi-ka in the valley. And ifa you goa heer, ita eesa da besta viewa inaalla da Dolomites.” That’s Barbara, the owner of my splendid hotel in the Brenta region of the Italian Dolomites. There isn’t just one
[MILANO, ITALY] — I was sitting in a farmhouse in Provence reading Maisons Cote Sud thinking about where I wanted to go next. There was an article about this restored abandoned farmstead in the middle of Milan. I thought “wow, this is so cool.” I tore it out and added it to my Milan list. You’d never think there’d still be an old farmstead smack in the middle of Milano, but there is. Cascina Cuccagna is an old abandoned 18th Century agricultural complex that a group of local food lovers got together, hauled away the junk and turned the place into a cool food-centric hangout. It’s a culinary cultural center: a bar/cafe, a bookstore, a nice restaurant, an event space and an educational garden, all in
[HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS, MOROCCO] — I didn’t know there’d be a donkey involved. Actually, I didn’t really know what all would be involved. But there he was, on a foot bridge spanning a roaring river, staring at me like “Really?”. It would be hard to be a donkey, actually. Getting all the shit jobs that man doesn’t want to do, in this case, carrying my pack and our lunch for the day. And the flies. Man, the flies. A constant swarm of pesky varmints, always, poking your eyes, biting your knees, and just all-around being annoying. 24/7. I hate flies and if I was a donkey, I’d really hate flies. A constant shake of the head to shake them away. My tail in continuous motion to
[MARRAKESH, MOROCCO] — Here’s my hotel review of Villa des Orangers the best boutique hotel in Marrakesh. Villa des Orangers is my vote for best luxury hotel Marrakesh. ___________________________ It was midnight on a full moon in Marrakesh. A late flight from Barcelona after a many-hours transfer in Casablanca. The driver pulls over on a very busy, unremarkable street, next to a gas station, an LP gas depot and about the world’s most frenetic bus stop and taxi stand, drivers wailing and waving, engines gunning. Everyone looked to be in charge, yelling at other drivers to be doing something other than what they were doing. Buses, trucks and loud scooters screamed by, drowning out the shouts of the cab stand. The luxury van stopped in
[MARRAKESH, MOROCCO] — A review of Amanjena luxury hotel Marrakesh, the best hotel in the Marrakesh Palmeraie. Amanjena is one of the best luxury hotels in Marrakesh. __________________________ The sun had set. The sky dimming a deep purple. Reflections on a giant dark pool shimmered back the endless repetitive patterns of grand columns across the water — embracing my pattern-OCD like a bear hug. A handful of people relaxed on pillows strewn about a manicured lawn, sipping cocktails amidst the growing light of the dozens of lanterns lit just so. Silently, five men in long robes and headscarves sat down in low chairs at the water’s edge. And then it started. A gentle bass drum, lithe strings join in, picking up the pace as a percussion resonated against all
[STRONG CITY, KANSAS] — Here’s a post about a fantastic visit to the National Tallgrass Prairie Preserve. Thousands of acres of rolling green grasslands in Strong City, Kansas. And a review of the excellent Clover Cliff Ranch B&B, you should stay here. ____________________________________ What Are The Flint Hills? Out in the middle of Kansas lies the astounding Flint Hills, hundreds of thousands of acres of treeless, rolling hills with few fences and even fewer people. For generations these hills have remained the same, the soil so thick with rocks and limestone, they’ve never been plowed. You can read more on The Nature Conservancy website. Some of those thousands of acres have been preserved in the National Tallgrass Prairie Preserve, owned by the Nature Conservancy and co-managed
[KANSAS FLINT HILLS] — In the middle of Kansas, the breadbasket of the US, lies the Flint Hills — hundreds of thousands of acres of tallgrass prairies, open rangeland with very few trees, even less fences and the best grazing land in the country. The Flying W Ranch and the Clover Cliff Ranch in Chase County, Kansas has put on this cool shindig with their cousins and neighbors since ’96. Called Flames in the Flint Hills, they attract a couple of hundred people from all over the country every year. [EDITOR’S NOTE: The post was from a visit in 2015. During the pandemic Flying W shut down their guest ranch and are now solely focused on their sustainably-raised grass-fed beef business. You can read about it here. ]
[CARMELO, URUGUAY] — I’m not a huge fan of hotel chains for international trips — I prefer more unique independent hotels that reflect the character of each locale, not the same style everywhere I go. But in a pinch for a room at the last minute in Carmelo, I booked a couple of nights and pool time at the Carmelo Resort & Spa a luxury resort in the tall pines along the Rio La Pata river, about 40 mins from the colonial town of Colonia del Sacramento. It’s one of the best luxury hotels in Uruguay and consistently ranked in the Top 10 Resorts in Central and South America by Conde Nast Traveller and Travel & Leisure. It was a Four Seasons at the time
[CARMELO, URUGUAY] — A review of Narbona Wine Lodge in Carmelo Uruguay. A nice boutique hotel in Uruguay. The best hotel in Carmelo Uruguay. And one of the best wine hotels in Uruguay. Along the cool banks of the muddy Rio de la Plata is the wine region of Carmelo, Uruguay’s top wine region. All the best Uruguayan vintners are here, including Finca Narbona. Restored to turn of the century newness, Narbona Wine Lodge is like a museum of the past, with antiques, buildings and charm that dates back over a century. With only and handful of rooms nestled right up along the vines, you feel like you’re staying in a period movie. The rooms are huge. The service minimal. The quiet is deafening. What a
[PUEBLO GARZÓN, URUGUAY] –Here’s a post about a fun gaucho parade and festival in the town of Garzón in Uruguay. We were in the tiny quiet village of Pueblo Garzón, Uruguay. Once abandoned, but bought by the famous chef Francis Mallmann who added a world famous restaurant and a small five room hotel. I’d been to Garzón several times by myself, but that year I dragged some friends along this time, “You gotta see how cool this place is.” After a week on the beach in nearby Jose Ignacio — my favorite place on earth — we were in Garzón for a few days to eat and bask in the wide green expanse of the Uruguayan countryside. And most importantly, eat Francis’s amazing food and
[LISBON] — Coming back through Lisbon on the flipflop back to the airport, got to spend a night at the Lapa Palace, a fancy Old School hotel in the Lapa District, the Embassy quarter high above Lisbon. Best part about the hotel is the expansive grounds and pool stepped below the rooms overlooking the city. They were very friendly, even though I had to jostle rooms so I could stay an extra night on the cool coast. But still, they upgraded me to a suite for some reason, enormous and something my parents would have raved about. Definitely elegant Old School, especially is you like mauve. Nice balcony. There’s an old wing and a new one, the rooms in the new one feel
[LOS CABOS, MEXICO] — Here’s my review of Esperanza luxury resort Los Cabos, an Auberge resort. One of the best luxury resorts in Los Cabos. Cabo is crazy with Spring Breakers, bachelorette parties and some budget accommodations, but a few coves over is the super luxurious Esperanza resort, far enough away from the maddening crowds, but close enough to benefit from the convenience of getting in/out of town. Esperanza is an Auberge resort, so you know it’s top of the line. Esperanza is part of the Auberge Resort Collection, so you know it’s gonna be top notch. You get your own personal concierge who pretty much looks after to you round the clock and arranges everything for you. The good thing about the
[WEST HOLLYWOOD, CALIFORNIA] — Here’s my review of the Sunset Tower Hotel in West Hollywood, one of the best boutique hotels in Los Angeles. And my nomination for the best luxury hotel in Los Angeles. __________________________________ Sunset Tower–The Best Boutique Hotel in Los Angeles On a quick business trip to Los Angeles way back in 2013, I booked a cool hotel I’d always read about and featured often in Vanity Fair: the Sunset Tower Hotel. Famed for its rockstar clientele and celebrities in the Tower Bar restaurant and the amazing skills of Jeff Klein, a legendary hotelier, everyone always raves about the amazing star treatment everyone gets. Luckily, I booked it on my favorite go-to hotel booking site, TabletHotels.com which isn’t your typical booking site, each
[MADRID, SPAIN] — There are lots and lots of Madrid guides, so I won’t go into much detail here, just think of this post like an old postcard rack at the train station, look for places that look good, then go find them. These are all my favorite places in Madrid. The Best Things to Do in Madrid, at least the best things to do over a winter weekend in Madrid. An overview of the best things to do in Madrid over a winter weekend. What to do in Madrid and what to do in 36 Hours in Madrid. I won’t go into much detail here, others have already done it. Just think of this post like a cluttered old postcard rack at the train
[CHICAGO]– I’ve stayed now a half-dozen times at this hotel, originally designed by famous hotelier Ian Schrager and opened as the PUBLIC hotel, it’s now called The Ambassador “Chicago’s original boutique hotel”. It still ranks as one of my favorite places to stay in Chicago and certainly my favorite Ian Schrager hotel. It’s now run This is one of my favorite lobby designs I’ve seen — that great combination of classic architecture and modern design — and everything was white-on-white, with good looking people dressed in black as props. It still feels as fresh as when it opened more than a decade ago. It’s now a Hyatt boutique brand and they’ve added a little more color, but still retained a lot of the same core