[LONDON] — A review of The Ned boutique hotel in London. The Ned is my vote for the best boutique hotel in London. And it has a collection of the best restaurants in London. You may never want to leave. ________________________________ You could feel the early Christmas season in the electric air. It was 4:30 on a Friday and the place was packed in every direction you turned, shoulder to shoulder in most places, everyone dressed up a little more festive than other weeks of the year, smiling, toasting success. It was dark in center of the great grand lobby, ninety four green marble columns rising thirty feet into the air, each with a top hat of shiny acanthus leaves, in a Corinthian way. The
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[OURIKA VALLEY, MOROCCO] — Here’s my review of Kasbah Bab Ourika an airy oasis and one of the best boutique hotel in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains. Kasbah Bab Ourika is one of best hotels Atlas Mountains and the perfect base to explore the Atlas Mountains. And one of the best adventure hotels in Morocco. ______________________________ The road out of Marrakesh is a great unwinding. Leaving the crowded and bustling Medina behind, the criss-crossing crowded intersections and roundabouts, vehicles of every different size and shape. Donkey- and horse-drawn carts take their place alongside screaming mopeds, belching buses and trucks loaded with construction supplies and produce. Vendors selling everything out of their trunk on the side of the road or at a waiting stoplight. Well-dressed Moroccans and expats
[ESSAOUIRA, MOROCCO] — Review of Le Jardin des Douars hotel Essaouira. The best luxury boutique hotel near Essaouira Morocco. Where to shop Essaouira Medina. _______________________________ “Will we be able to see the goats in the trees?” I’d read about them for years, had seen picture and always wondered: “Why are the goats in trees?” Now I wanted to see them. The drive from the Atlas Mountains was long and a little painful, you basically have to drive back through Marrakesh, then two and half hours driving across the barren plains to Essaouira on the coast. But as we were getting close to Essaouira, the driver quickly pulled over to the side of the road. GOATS! After the initial fun reaction, we soon realized this
[MARRAKESH, MOROCCO] — Here’s my post on the best things to do in Marrakesh. What to do in Marrakesh. What to see. Where to go and where to eat in Marrakesh. ___________________________________ It’s the drums that get you first. A full-frontal, heart-fibrillating pounding of Berber rhythms. So intense and staccato-firing that Buddy Rich would have a hard time keeping up. And the flutes. The ear-piercing, high pitched whine of the flutes, constant, taunting cobras to dance on the hot stones. And the people. The rush of endless people. Of every shape, size, color, religion, sunburn, clothing, shape, shoe-type/non-shoe-wearing. And the breeze. A steady wave of warm air that makes the palms, the long robes, the billowing smoke from the merguez grilling in the food stalls
[LONDON] — I’ve been to London four or five times. Sometimes just a couple of days on business, sometimes a long weekend to meet friends, sometimes just an overnight to catch a flight elsewhere. There are lots and lots of good London guides, so I won’t go into much detail here, just think of this post like an old postcard rack at the train station — look for places that look good, then go find them. These are all my favorite places in London. Cool things to do in London. You Should Go Here in London. My favorite places in London. The best things to do in London. There are plenty of good guides to London, so I won’t go into much detail here. Just
[MARRAKESH] — A hotel review of Riad 72 the best riad in Marrakech. Best place to stay in the Medina of Marrakech. Best boutique hotel in Marrakesh. A glorious Riad, with interior courtyard, chic design, great restaurant and reasonably priced. ______________________________ Arriving at Marrakesh airport was a trip. My hotel had arranged a Fast Track service to expedite thru the passport control. A cute, small red-lipped French-speaking girl in a matching red blazer welcomed me immediately off the jetway with a sign. It was the first time I’d seen my name as a verb — “Fogarting”. We stood awkwardly as we waited for my baggage, toes tapping, me trying my Bad French. She, apologizing for her delightful English: “I like this, I can practice my English….”
[PIEMONTE, ITALY] — Here’s my overview of Monforte d’Alba, the perfect base to explore the Piemonte (Piedmont) wine region of northern Italy. My list of the best things to do in Monforte d’Alba. Where to Eat in Monforte d’Alba. Where to Stay in Monforte d’Alba. What Vineyards to Visit in Monforte d’Alba _________________________________ Mid October is a busy season here in Barolo. Most of the grapes have already been picked, but because of recent rains there’s more to go. A couple of hot days of sun and we’re good to go. Laying down for a jet-lag nap, I can hear gargling tractors drive by on the famous Via Ginestra, their rattling trailers rushing to the crushing. This is also the beginning of truffle season, here
[PIEMONTE, ITALY] — Two hours off my overnight flight, I was still goating and my Terrier hair was going in every direction. My GPS had inexplicably sent me through a frantic detour through the Centro of the Turin on my way to the land of Barolo and I was running late. Pulling down the gravel road and into the parking, my friend and host Jon and his 8 year old son greeted me as he sprinted down the steps of his house, La Casa Gialla. I was here for the wine harvest in Barolo, one of the best wine regions in the world. “Oh man, glad you’re here. I was just heading to a wine tasting, want to come along?” “Certo.” We raced across the
[THE SAHARA, MOROCCO] — I was sitting there polishing off my second Negroni — a Negroni in the frickin’ Sahara Desert — watching the blazing sun rapidly sink over the darkening horizon when here comes Ahmed, barreling over the lip of the nearest dune, in bare feet (!). Huffing, he says “Monsieur Dan, we have one more surprise for you tonight. Please come. Oh… and bring your camera.” As if I needed more surprises that day… we start charging off through the sand towards the quickly setting sun. We follow a path along the dune ridges, lanterns illuminating the way, the darkness arriving freaky-fast, almost like a light switch. We top the lip of the ridge and I shriek like a little girl. Ahmed giggles with excitement. We’re
[SKOURA, MOROCCO] — This is my overview of an incredible stay at the mind-blowing Dar Ahlam a luxurious kasbah in a hidden palm oasis on the edge of the Moroccan desert. A hotel review of Dar Ahlam luxury hotel, the best boutique hotel in Morocco. Located in Skoura, Dar Ahlam is the perfect luxury hotel to explore the Sahara. __________________________ After a long, bumpy slog over the Atlas Mountains from Marrakesh, I got out of the dusty Mercedes van in an indiscriminate parking lot outside a great mud-walled compound. Steep walls up to the sky. This is it? I wondered under my breath. This is the place I’ve heard so much about? And then, with silent porters in linen tunics grabbing my bags, a great
[ALENTEJO, PORTUGAL] — Here’s a post overview of ballooning over Monsaraz in Portugal’s Alentejo region. Balloon over the best hilltop top of Monsaraz and the Alqueva reservoir. _____________________________ The ancient town of Monsaraz sits high on a hilltop in Portugal’s Alentejo regio, the tallest point for miles around. Just miles from the Spanish border and surrounded by thick castle walls, it overlooks one of the most beautiful parts of inland Portugal, including the giant Alqueva reservoir — the largest manmade lake in Europe. Some consider Monsaraz one of Portugal’s most picturesque villages and it is one of it’s oldest. People have been living in this region since pre-historic times, with ancient monoliths strewn all over the land. Then the Romans came and took over, then
[LISBON, PORTUGAL] — Here’s a great boutique design hotel to stay in Lisbon. The Lisboans. A review of The Lisboans boutique apartment hotel in Lisbon. The best boutique hotel in Lisbon, in Central Baixa. ________________________ When I got out of the taxi, I noticed the small, discrete sign out front, The Lisboans. I rang the doorbell and was buzzed in. A gregarious Mario welcomed me like a brother “You’re Dan?, we’ve been waiting for you, welcome to The Lisboans“. He brought me through a small door into a room full of six or so people at open desks, working on their computers. “Everyone, this is Dan.” “Hiiii Daaan.” they all replied in unision, with smiles. “Welcome to our Nerve Center where everything happens’”. Everyone goes back
[LISBON] — There are lots of great restaurants in Portugal, but I’m just going to talk about two must-visit restaurants in Lisbon that I recently went to. Restaurante Prado and Horta dos Brunos. Two fantastic and completely different experiences. When I was in the beach town of Comporta, Yasmine, a very tasteful Belgian Instagram friend direct-messaged me this tip: And then, when I was in the far rolling hills of Alentejo, my friends Neil & Lisa texted me: “We went to that Horta dos Brunos your friend recommended. Wow. Fantastic. So full. Can’t walk.” When I finally arrived in Lisbon, I knew I had to go and made reservations. When I got in my Uber and the non-English speaking driver saw the destination on his
[ALENTEJO, PORTUGAL] — Here’s my recap of the best beaches in Comporta Portugal. Comporta is the best beach vacation in Portugal. Here’s what to do in Comporta. And the best things to do in Comporta. ___________________________________ About an hour south of Lisbon later, after crossing the broad bays of the swollen Targus river, the road flattens out into lowlands. You start to see familiar names you’ve read about on the autostrada exits. Setúbal. Estuário do Sado. Alcácer do Sal. Yup, we’re on the right path. Bright yellow signs indicate the Algarve to left. But we’re not heading there this trip. And then you see it. Comporta. That’s us. You pull off the highway and head for the salty air. Suddenly you’re dunked into a sea
[ALENTEJO, PORTUGAL] — We’d spent our first day in Comporta at Pégo Beach, one of the best beaches in the area. Still a little jet-lagged after arriving the night before. We rented chairs and lulled ourselves to sleep with the waves while quietly reading/not reading our books. The sun was high, it was the end of June, but the steady breeze kept the temperature in the 70s. Unbelievably perfect. Families played beach games as we shake-and-baked in the soft warm sand — so opposite from the rocky beaches of France and Italy. Around about noon, my stomach growled. “I believe it is time for us to eat,” I said, knowing that one of the best restaurants in Comporta sat not 70 meters from where we
[HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS, MOROCCO] — Here’s my review of Richard Branson’s Kasbah Tamadot hotel in the High Atlas Mountain of Morocco. Kasbah Tamadot is one of the best luxury hotels in Morocco and the best hotel in the Atlas Mountain and part of Richard Branson’s amazing Virgin Limited hotel group. It’s only an hour outside of Marrakech, but feels like a world away. ___________________________ Pulling out of the crazy busy dark corners of Medina of Marrakesh, the sky suddenly opens up. Endless palm trees paint the sky like clouds. Vast estates with long pink mud walls line the highway for miles. And that’s when you first see them, the Atlas Mountains, snow capped even in the 80 degree spring heat. Beckoning from a distance to
[BRENTA DOLOMITES, ITALY] — Here’s my review of the BioHotel Hermitage a family-run boutique hotel in Madonna di Campiglio, the best hotel views in the Brenta Dolomites in Italy. During the ski season, Madonna di Campiglio attracts people from all over the world. During the “off season” — which I can’t believe they call it that, it is such a gorgeous time of year — it is uncrowded and the scenery is just jaw-dropping. _________________________________________________ We were sad to leave Milano, but we were jonesing for the next stop. After a quick lunch in quaint medieval Bergamo, finally we went, up into the Dolomites. Spindly little roads needling through small mountain towns, with pesky speed cameras the entire way. We threaded our way up the
[ALTA BADIA, TRENTINO] — I’ve been to Alta Badia three or four times now. Here’s my overview of three great hikes in Alta Badia in the Italian Dolomites. A few of the best hikes Alta Badia: San Cassiano, Pralongia, Pre d Costa, Rifugio Scotoni, Lagazuoi. ________________________________ After a four hour hike down the mountain, it was finally time for a late lunch. Stanky and sweaty, I rolled into this cute little rifugio out in the woods, accessible only by foot or the brave souls driving up the narrow less-than-one-lane path — so tight the cars forced the hikers to lean their butts and packs over the wood rail fence lining the lane as they passed. I was hangry by then so hearty venison medallions in
[VAL GARDENA, BOLZANO] — Here’s a fun overview of two great hikes in Val Gardena valley of Italy’s Sud Tyrol region. Great hiking in the Dolomites. Two of the best hikes in Val Gardena and the Italian Dolomites. And the best restaurants Ortisei. _______________________________________ We were on a long gondola ride heading up a long valley of undulating hills outside of the beautiful town of Ortisei, no doubt perfect ski runs in the winter. But it was summer, off season, so everything was super lush and green, hardly anybody around. The lift pauses at one skier drop-off then continues on, up up up and over a steep massive wall of granite, still shaded by the stark morning sun, darkening the interior of the gondola so much
[FERNANDO DE NORONHA, BRAZIL] — Here’s an overview of the best things to do on Fernando de Noronha Brazil, and island 200 miles off the coast of Brazil. It’s the Brazilian paradise nobody really knows about. What to do, where to stay on Fernando de Noronha. _______________________________ It had rained all morning. I was driving like a mad man in my bumble-bee colored dune buggy, down a rutted muddy road to a clearing on the edge of a steep cliff. Not intentionally crazy, mind you, but out of necessity. The little dune buggy was so small and my legs were so long that my knees straddled the teeny rubber steering wheel. I had to steer with my arms between my legs, crab-like. Nearing the edge of