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A RIVER MAKEOVER IN THE HEART OF MADRID

(Madrid) — I’d read about this redevelopment project a while ago and always wanted to check it out. Long abandoned and gone to seed, several years ago the massive redevelopment transformed the whole river. Over the last several years, it has really come together. What used to be sludgy is now sparkling, with walkways and bridges intertwined along the river, with kids playing, people jogging and chatting. A great place to get away from the crowds, even in the winter. Go at sunset so you can watch the lights of the city come on and the moon rise. Start on the south side, by the new Matedero arts center and move your way up north to the Royal Palace. Delightful way to spend an early evening.Here’s

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MADRID’S CENTRAL PARK

(Madrid) — Take time out of eating, drinking and shopping to take a long stroll or do some eating or drinking in Madrid’s Parque del Retiro.  Beautifully laid out, with different sections that beckon you to keep going on to the next site, there’s lots to see, summer or winter.  (These shots are from winter, just imagine what summer looks like.)  

IT’S LIKE A LIFE-SIZE TOY TRAIN SET

(Madrid) — On the western side of Madrid, just below the royal palace is a typical looking European train station, but inside it’s not.  The Estacion de Principe Pio was remodeled to incorporate all the metro and commuter rail stations, stacked up on top of each other like a toy train set, with trains criss-crossing above and below you in all different directions.  Some of the tracks seem dormant, then all of a sudden a train comes shooting through.  Definitely recommend killing a while here just taking it all in.  Really is cool.  

A ROMANTIC HIDEAWAY ON THE WEST COAST OF TUSCANY

[PORTO ERCOLE, TUSCANY] — Il Pellicano is a world famous destination resort on the western Tuscan coast of Maremma. Just celebrating it’s 50th Anniversary, Il Pellicano is on the top of nearly every Gold List. It’s a Leading Hotels of the World hotel and is built around the Michelin two-star restaurant, which is indeed worth the trip. The views are stunning, overlooking the Argentario peninsula, not far from where the Costa Concordia tipped over. Really amazing service, where each and every person, from the waiter to the bartender, remembers what you ordered the last time. It’s expensive, but the room I got was one of the most spacious and perfectly appointed I’ve ever had, perfectly laid out, with an enormous bathroom and opened onto a terrace overlooking

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A BREATH OF FRESH AIR…IN A CITY OF 20 MILLION

(Sao Paulo) — Sao Paulo is big. But when you want a break from the concrete, take a taxi to the Parque Ibirapuera, Sao Paulo’s Central Park. Walk among the walkers, with great stops at lakes and mini forests and make sure you duck into the Oscar Niemeyer designed music pavilion.

LOOK OUT ALL OVER BARCELONA. AND MORE GAUDI.

(Barcelona) — I debated and debated: “Do I really want to go all the way out there?”  Boy, am I glad I did.  Park Guell is a park set in the high hills on the edge of Barcelona.  It’s a little bit of a hoof, but well worth it when you get there. There’s an amazing Guadi designed pavilion there, trails that loop up and down the mountain and stunning views over the whole city. Just keep going up. You will be rewarded. A great way to spend a half a day.      

A 300 HUNDRED YEAR WORK-IN-PROGRESS

(Barcelona) — You’ve read about it in your school textbooks. You’ve seen pictures of it. But once you get inside, it all makes sense. Really magical. You should go hang out here, wait for when the sun is out and streaming though the windows. Don’t let the constructions cranes scare you away, they’ll be there for awhile.      

A CHILL NEIGHBORHOOD IN BARCELONA

(BARCELONA) — El Born is a cool, quiet neighborhood away from the crazy crowds. Perfect for walking around, cool shops, mellow restaurants and beautiful streets.  There’s a great little square with four or five outdoor cafes, perfect to just sit and watch Barcelona go by.  Go here. Here’s a good article from The Guardian. Last visited July 2015      

A POSTCARD PERFECT TOWN HIGH OVER THE AMALFI COAST

[RAVELLO, ITALY] — A few thousand feet up the mountains over Positano and the sea is the town of Ravello. Often voted one of the prettiest villages in Italy, it shows it. They’ve done a great job at preserving this little mountaintop town. No modern stores or chains. Just a quant little piazza, with hotels and restaurants spanning out to the edges of the cliffs. The views are stunning of the distant water thousands of feet below, the shimmer of the sun. Extremely relaxing place with just a few hotels and restaurants. A couple days is all you need unless you just want to unwind with a book by the pool and feel the breeze.   Founded in the 5th Century, Ravello is a UNESCO

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A PARK THAT WEAVES BETWEEN THE BUILDINGS AND ABOVE THE STREETS

(New York) — A masterwork of modern design and urban planning, the High Line is an old railroad trestle that used to deliver railcars loaded with stuff down the west side of Manhattan towards all the manufacturing plants downtown.  Long abandoned as factories moved out and people moved in, the trestle was off limits for years and grew weeds and trees unannounced until someone rediscovered it and came up with The Big Idea. Built in sections over the last several years, it runs for dozens of blocks from around the 30s to its terminus in the Meatpacking District…which is a good place to start your journey.  As it was undergoing renovation, dozens of businesses, hotels and condos were built along its stretch. Now it’s their

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CHRISTMAS AT THE BEACH IN BARCELONA

Barcelona beaches  

MILES AND MILES OF PRISTINE BEACHES IN BAHIA

(Trancoso, Brazil) — Bahia is where it’s at. Miles and miles of the most amazing beaches you’ve ever seen. Not clogged with people, just pristine sand, amazingly green water and lots and lots of perfect strolling. Trancoso is in the center of it all. You should go here. I’m not the only one. Check out these great articles from Conde Nast Traveler (which ranked it in the 15 Best Places to See Now, Vogue and Travel & Leisure for details.    

A BOHEMIAN JETSET VILLAGE IN BAHIA

(Trancoso, Brazil) — I’d read about Trancoso for some time, it just kept popping up in the right places. But when I was in a small Uruguayan hotel and met a photographer from Wallpaper and he said it was one of the coolest places he’d been, I knew I had to go. So I did. The peak season around Xmas is nuts all over Brazil, so if you’re thinking of going, book early. When I was there in early March, it was quite empty, but still incredible. A once-isolated fishing village in Bahia, it was “rediscovered” by hippies in the 70s and has grown over the years into a world-class destination. You read about it everywhere now and it continues to change and evolve, with

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A MUSEUM OUT IN THE COUNTRYSIDE

(Outside Copenhagen) — When I read about the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, I himmed-and-hawked about making the treck out to the countryside. But boy oh boy am I glad I did. You take a quick train and then walk a few blocks, but the setting is what makes this such a special place.  Okay, the art too.  Set right along the Oresund, the peaceful setting gets your mood when you walk up the road and first see the building. The outdoor sculpture garden is serene, overlooking the water. A really cool cafe makes it perfect timing to plan to spend lunch, with windows overlooking the sea and a warmth like a cup of coffee. I lost some of my pictures, but check out what

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AMSTERDAM POSTCARDS

(Amsterdam) — I’d never been to Amsterdam before – not that interested in the coffeeshops and sex shops and drunken British lads. But after working like a fiend all year, I decided to make a Mileage Run over Thanksgiving, booking two weeks before and doing very little research. I jumped on a plane and just decided to wing it, knowing I just needed to get out of the country, fast. Icame for five days, but I was kinda done after three. It’s a small city. November is, I discovered, the absolute rainiest month in the year. No big deal, I was expecting that, I like going places when hoards of tourists aren’t there and get a chance to live like a resident. Living in New York taught me that. While everyone came in

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POSTCARDS OF BUENOS AIRES

Here’s a great BA guide from Travel & Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, and NYTimes.    

MOUNTAINS ROLLING INTO THE SEA

  The whole Amalfi Coast is a string of towns south of Naples, roughly starting from Sorrento on down.  Each has it’s own charm and personality. Not a big fan of Sorrento, more of a modern city that cruise ships and tour buses visit.  Keep going down farther, starting at Positano.  Positano is almost all about hotels and restaurants, not much else going on except lemons and pottery with lemons on it. You come to rest and look out over the sea, then eat. All of Positano is built on a steep cliff around a V shaped cove, with one main road that zig-zags from the top to the bottom, then back up again. The rest is just steep steps connecting each level.  The beach

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A WINTER WALK AROUND STOCKHOLM

[STOCKHOLM] — Here are some of my favorite sites in Stockholm, like a digital postcard rack for you to explore. Here’s an awesome survey article from a June 2016 Wall Street Journal article on a weekend in Stockholm. I concur with all their tips and suggestions. Here’s a great recap article of all the cool new New Nordic Cuisine in Sweden in the July 2012 Conde Nast Traveler.

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