[ALTA BADIA, TRENTINO] — I’ve been to Alta Badia three or four times now. Here’s my overview of three great hikes in Alta Badia in the Italian Dolomites. A few of the best hikes Alta Badia: San Cassiano, Pralongia, Pre d Costa, Rifugio Scotoni, Lagazuoi. ________________________________ After a four hour hike down the mountain, it was finally time for a late lunch. Stanky and sweaty, I rolled into this cute little rifugio out in the woods, accessible only by foot or the brave souls driving up the narrow less-than-one-lane path — so tight the cars forced the hikers to lean their butts and packs over the wood rail fence lining the lane as they passed. I was hangry by then so hearty venison medallions in
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[VAL GARDENA, BOLZANO] — Here’s a fun overview of two great hikes in Val Gardena valley of Italy’s Sud Tyrol region. Great hiking in the Dolomites. Two of the best hikes in Val Gardena and the Italian Dolomites. And the best restaurants Ortisei. _______________________________________ We were on a long gondola ride heading up a long valley of undulating hills outside of the beautiful town of Ortisei, no doubt perfect ski runs in the winter. But it was summer, off season, so everything was super lush and green, hardly anybody around. The lift pauses at one skier drop-off then continues on, up up up and over a steep massive wall of granite, still shaded by the stark morning sun, darkening the interior of the gondola so much
[FERNANDO DE NORONHA, BRAZIL] — Here’s an overview of the best things to do on Fernando de Noronha Brazil, and island 200 miles off the coast of Brazil. It’s the Brazilian paradise nobody really knows about. What to do, where to stay on Fernando de Noronha. _______________________________ It had rained all morning. I was driving like a mad man in my bumble-bee colored dune buggy, down a rutted muddy road to a clearing on the edge of a steep cliff. Not intentionally crazy, mind you, but out of necessity. The little dune buggy was so small and my legs were so long that my knees straddled the teeny rubber steering wheel. I had to steer with my arms between my legs, crab-like. Nearing the edge of
[MUSCAT, OMAN] — An overview of a half day tour of Muscat Oman, tour of Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. The best things to do Muscat. What to do in Muscat. Muscat is the capital of Oman and sits right on Gulf of Oman, protected by barren Hajar mountains to the south. About 1.4 million people live here, so it’s actually quite small and manageable to get around. It’s an ancient city, rich in history, with people living here since 6,000 BC, Romans visited here, Persians, Portuguese and Ottomans all ruled here at some time. With its brand new airport, people are now flying here to enjoy the warm winters and tan by the pools of the many five star hotels that line the coast. It’s
[MUSCAT, OMAN] — Here’s my hotel review of The Chedi Muscat luxury boutique hotel in Muscat Oman. The Chedi Muscat is the best design hotel Oman. And one of the world’s best design hotels. The best luxury hotel in Muscat. ____________________________________ Thursday afternoons in Muscat are busy traffic days. Like in most Muslim countries, where the “weekend” consists of Friday and Saturday, Thursday is everybody’s Friday afternoon and they’re itching to get home to their families. I’d arrived after a long but luxurious 13 hour Emirates flight from JFK to Dubai — that after taking a midnight redeye from Denver to JFK and a five hour layover — then, another five hour layover, then a quick forty minute flight into the sparkling clean, gleaming
[MUSANDAM PENINSULA, OMAN] — Here’s my review of Six Senses Zighy Bay adventure hotel on the coast of Oman. One of the best luxury hotels in Oman. A stunning beach resort that you can paraglide into Check-In. ____________________________ When you land in crazy Dubai, the Six Senses driver is there to great you. A kind Indian man from Kerala (as seemingly every helpful service person in this region is), dressed in a nice black suit and tie. As you weave your way through Dubai’s twenty lane highways, the skyscrapers disappear, the highway gets successively narrower, the gigantic 200 foot-long real estate billboards become faded and empty. Sand dunes start to appear. Camels start to pop up, randomly, in the dunes on the side of the road.
[AL HAJAR, OMAN] — Here’s a fun overview of the absolutely most amazing Alila Jabal Akhdar, the best adventure hotel in Oman. Perched on a the steep edge of a canyon in the remote Al Hajar Mountains in Oman. Looking right out over the Wadi Ghul, “Oman’s Grand Canyon” — the second deepest canyon in the world. Alila Jabal Akhdar is one of the best luxury hotels in Oman. Prepared to be blown away. ________________________________ When I first saw a photo of this hotel when it opened several years ago I just stopped in my tracks — well, stopped turning the page — and went “Woohhhh, where the hell is this???” Oman. Oman? Where’s Oman? “I gotta go there. And stay riiiiiiight here.” And that’s how
[WAHIBA SANDS, OMAN] — Here’s a fun overview of staying in a private tent camp in the desert in Oman. The best private tent camp in the Wahiba Sand desert Oman. ____________________________ We’d been driving all day when we pulled into the scruffy desert town of Bidiyah. My guide Zubir pulled off to the left side of the road and rolled to a stop in a small gas station, a cloud of dust chasing us to a stop. Two dark Indian men had been waiting for us, squatting against a wall. They knew we were in a hurry, so when he rolled in, they were quick to tackle each tire, twisting off the caps to the air valves and immediately started letting air out of
[OMAN] — Such a fascinating place, Oman, with the nicest people I’ve run into, across the board. I spent two weeks crisscrossing northern Oman and this post is all about the best places to go Oman and the best things to do Oman. What to do in Oman. Touring the Great Circle Route in Oman. Including the beautiful Bimmah Sinkhole and the busy Nizwa Goat Market. ______________________________ Oman is an Incredible Country Omanis are known for their gentle souls, peacemaking and equal support of friend and foe. People are so nice that even when I arrived at Passport Control, I walked up to the stern looking passport-checker dude. “From where are you?” “The States” “Really?? We don’t get many Americans here. What is your purpose? Where
[HAMBURG] — Ha-Ha-Hamburg. Man, what a city. If you asked me a year ago if Hamburg was on my wishlist of cities to visit. “Ummmmm, no.” But, I didn’t know. This is my quick guide of what to do in Hamburg over a long weekend. I just thought Hamburg was just a big industrial port city in northern Germany. But through the marvels of Instagram, I kept seeing these beautiful shots of this remarkable city, Germany’s second largest and its major business hub, with all of its media, design and shipping headquarters here. Airbus, Unilever, broadcast networks, all here. Like Berlin — which I covered in recent posts — Hamburg has been undergoing a huge Renaissance. Not just updating, but reinventing itself. With massive cool new developments
[BERLIN] — I’ve only been to Berlin three times, but here’s my picks for what to do in Berlin over a long winter weekend. The best things to do in Berlin. How to spend 36 hours in Berlin. Where to eat in Berlin. _________________________ 36 Hours in Berlin The first time I was last in Berlin it was so long ago, it’s scary. Back when I was in college in Rome, when the Wall was around. When Checkpoint Charlie was a real checkpoint. The city just seemed to be numb then, both sides. Mostly old people on the streets, not many. Can’t remember anyone young people. Everything seemed grey and colorless, broken. Eerie. You could roll a bowling ball down the main strassens and not hit
[BARCELONA] — I know I’m in the minority in being a steadfast fan of boutique hotels these days, whilst the rest of you are Airbnb’n, but I still am bullish on the whole hotel experience. In fact, I usually book my vacations around the hotel, often traveling far and wide just to visit a special place. These are the best boutique hotels in Barcelona I’ve found, so far. Four great boutique hotels in Barcelona. Barcelona has been almost overrun by Airbnbs, so much so that whole apartment buildings are being converted by investors into full-on apartment rentals — much to the scorn of local residents, pushed out by reasonable growing rents. But just before the HomeAway trend hit BCN, a flurry of boutique hotels were
[COSTA BRAVA, SPAIN] — Here’s a post all about cool things to do Costa Brava. The best boutique hotels in Spain’s Costa Brava. What to do in Costa Brava. And a review Hotel Mas Lazuli. A review of Hotel Castell d’Empordà all about the best things to do in Costa Brava. ____________________________ This is a big, long post about cool things to do in the Cost Brava region of Spain. But hopefully, a good overview to start planning your trip here. I consolidated several previous posts into one comprehensive post for Costa Brava. I haven’t spent a lot of time on the Costa Brava, but passed through here two different times over the span of three months on the way to other places, each time just for
[CATALONIA, SPAIN] — An overview of where to hike in the Spanish Pyrenees and the Val d’Aran. Exploring the Spanish Pyrenees and driving the N260. Overview of Le Seu d’Urgell. Hiking Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. _____________________________________ So I was sitting in a cool hotel on the edge of the Sahara one day before I was scheduled to fly back to the States. I’d been on the road for a month in Portugal and Morocco, but I wasn’t ready to go back quite yet. So I cancelled my return flight, flew to Barcelona, walked up to the Hertz desk and asked “Can I rent a car for two months?” “Si! Si, Señor!” I had no plan. And a lot of time. I
[LAGOS, PORTUGAL] — When everyone, including me, first goes to Portugal, the first thing they want to do is head toward the famed Algarve, the bottom half of the country, lined by picturesque rocky formations poking out from the water. But the Algarve to me is like Fort Lauderdale or Punta del Este, beautiful beaches ruined by hi-rises and massive retirement developments, centered around the “capital of Algarve”, Faro, all up to the border with Spain. But I really liked the quieter western end of the Algarve, from Portimao, west and on up the western coast. Here are my finds of the best beaches of the Western Algarve. The best beaches in Portugal and the best surfing beaches. _______________________________ The winding two lane highway runs
[TOURRETTES-SUR-LOUP, FRANCE] — Here’s an overview of the best things to do in Tourrettes-sur-Loup, a stunning hilltop village over the Côte d’Azur, and one of the best villages Alpes-Maritimes. And a review of the delightful Histoires de Bastide guesthouse. ______________________________ I was on my way back from nine blissful days in Greece and heading toward the southwest of France. Having already done most of the coast, I wanted to find a new place to explore. I opened a new travel website I kept hearing about i-escape.com and started scouring pictures for something that grabbed my eye. And then BOOM. I saw a the picture above. That was all it took. This is in France? Looks more like Italy, or maybe Corsica. An ancient village perched
[FOLEGANDROS, GREECE] — The naturally-formed port on Folegandros is pretty and humble at the same. It’s pretty sleepy, with just a handful of restaurants serving fresh fish and smiles. There are a couple of cheap hotels, one really nice one (Anemi Hotel, shown below) and many rooms to let. But it’s great base to take dayboat tours around the island. Not to mention getting all busybody as you succumb to the rhythms of the arriving ferries, like a Greek cat, and saunter on down to see what mice get on and off. It’s that peaceful. Like a Greek cat, you succumb to the rhythms of the arriving ferries and saunter on down to see what mice get on and off. The Mellow Folegandros Port What makes this
[FOLEGANDROS, GREECE] — A video and music overview of the best beaches, hotels and restaurants of the under-the-radar island of Folegandros. For more details, visit the Folegandros page on my website.
[GORGES DU VERDON, FRANCE] — I wasn’t planning on this hike. It was all innocent, really. I just stumbled on the signs and kept going. I had no water, no backpack, no raingear, no flashlight, no map, no guidebook. But the Scope-colored water and steep canyon kept pulling me “just a little farther.” The path descends to follow along the water, then climbing up ladders, dodging between stone arches then, disappearing into cool dark tunnels, emerging on the other side. When I say tunnels, I mean pitch black tunnels. Signs warn you should have a headlamp. Not having one, I mumbled to myself “Hahaha, we don’t need no stinking torchiers” as I entered that last… and longest tunnel.” Well, they were serious. Unbeknownst to me,
[SARTÈNE, CORSICA] — Here’s my overview of Domaine de Murtoli a luxurious secret hideaway on the French island of Corsica. The best luxury hotel in Corsica. The best luxury villas in Corscia. ______________________________ I was having dinner by myself the first night in Corsica at Domaine de Murtoli — one of the most exclusive resorts in France — and sitting back and grinning at all the natural wonder before me in this candle-lit treehouse of a restaurant hidden under the maquis trees. Barefoot waitresses in linen frocks darted under the leaves, bringing drinks, appetizers and cute smiles. Around the corner came a vision, the most perfectly tanned specimen on this planet. Valérie, the proprietress of this magical haven (and a former model and mother to four